A House on A Hill

Overlooking a lagoon rising out of a desert of grass there is a little hill. On it sits a house. The womb of a family. I went there in August on my own. Touched base with a part of me I’d been ignoring, that had been gnawing on my insides for years. They say the happiest people in the world are those who have been released from some sort of shackle. That’s me. Thumping my chest like a bass drum.

Not scared anymore.

My father came to England at the start of the 70s, to escape a tired Peronismo but more his parents, worked in Gospel Oak as a psychoanalyst. Ten years later at a cocktail party he met my mother, proposed five times in 3 months. Two years later my bro appeared, and then me. Being called Domingo was definitely uncool until well into my 20s. I drew the long straw. My brother’s full name is Miguel Martín Tomás de Teresa de Jesús Cullen. An exile in a foreign land, no 7,000 mile stretch of water was going to stop my father, hellbent on making his children as Argentine as possible.

Every school holiday saw the four of us on a plane, my mother writing Spanish vocabulary furiously in pocket books, learning the language from scratch aged 39. In the beating English summer we spent two months out in the Pampa, jumping in puddles, huddled around fires, watching the winter course through the plains and beat against the wall of our fortress, the great trees that held us firm.

We grew up mestizo.

In a strange no man’s land. English but not quite. Not Argentine but nearly. Months of horse riding and campfires, mud and bruises, Nesquick and boredom and the endless horizon of the huge expanse waiting there like a sea. The birdsong. The electric storms. The runaway horses. The power cuts and candlelight.

You could write a book about it.

My father did.

Took him forty years.

The Estancia is the house on top of the hill. Santa Helena was built in 1881. One of the many estancias divided up in the hectares our ancestor negotiated from the indigenous Indios who reigned over that enormous territory. When he died mad and scribbling on walls after years of government house arrest, the Indians stole his body and took it back with them to the pampa.

For seven generations it has been the home of our family. The trees, the birds, the laguna, the stink of sweat and horsehair under the cincha of the recado, my whole Argentine family grew up here.

‘We were woken by the sound of the gravel being raked, and then, when our nanny Gilda opened the window, by the white glow of the maple tree. The sun, already strong, reflected the white of the gravel and the white of the tree, and gave our unassuming country morning the radiance of the sea, or snow.’

The Estancia, p.127

My father, his brother, and his sister fought over the division of the house. For a decade. It was the source of so much angustia. Recriminations, lawsuits, resentment. Feeling they had a right to what was theirs. Feeling what was theirs being taken from them. It drove a stake between them. In the Latin way, unfamiliar to my English side, of loving and hating simultaneously, best of friends and enemies. In the end my father and my tío Carlos flipped a coin for the house. It has its own name now, its own folklore. La moneda, they call it. Papa won. The land was divided three ways.

The house, up on the hill, kept watch, over this family. Through seasons, her colour morphed from green to maroon to stark grey, on moody days the wind moving through the eucalyptus drowned the call of the wood pigeon and the chimango and at her edges the endless pampa bayed to come and subsume all to its will. In the evening my father liked to walk to the palos at the end of the park, the border between us and that plain where the shore meets the sea.

‘The vast landscape was deaf to the beating of my heart, and still it urged me to follow, to disappear within it. What do they know, those who speak of stillness? I stood there with the flat vista stretching out before me, the locked door of the casco at my back, and behind it the sunset burned, its light spreading out in a semi-circular fan before me. As the horizon receded, the smells of the pampa, revived as the heat exhausted itself, returned; mint, grass, dung, the dust of the corrals. But my trapped eyes ignored them. There was no smell, no temperature, no sound, only the silent fire at my back that enlarged that empty world that was me.’

The Estancia, p.158

Jaded by the fights, Papa left the house to me.

You’ll be better at fighting off the people who want to take it from you, he said. It doesn’t make sense to Miguel and I. The house is ours. When I think about it, the house is not anyone’s. Our family is the house’s. Santa Helena owns all of us. She has done for 140 years. All of us, generations of our family that have slept in her womb, walked her corridors, treaded her steps, flushed her cisterns, even the families of sirvientes and peones, park keepers and mayordomos. She owns all of us.

*

Analia brings me breakfast in the comedor, the steam from the coffee rises up in the air of the morning, the fires crackle in each room. I am alone in Santa Helena. These fires lit for me? I write to pops, hellbent on hearing my news. He’s living your every breath, my mother says, but he doesn’t want to bother you.

No se quiere meter.

I sleep in my mother’s bedroom, watch the embers spit in the darkness I shift position and hear the brass bed jingle, the linen sheets my old man loves are scratchy. I am happy alone in this big house listening to it stretch and sigh beneath me. The next morning in the bath, I look out at the window towards the laguna and remember being small, sitting at night as the water grew cold watching the frogs on the outsides of the window still as old stones lying in wait for bugs, and their tongues. Slop. Gobble. Gulp. Heavy weight of memory.

I read a passage in the book, feel something fathoms deep move in me.

*

So that was me.

Locked for years in this scary bind with that land I somehow didn’t feel worthy of.

I had cousins aunts uncles grandparents, memories, and I felt scared. When people came back from BA and declared it the coolest place on the planet I would grin and bear it. I wasn’t a tourist. I wasn’t a porteño. I didn’t know where to fit. I felt not Argentine enough. I remember talking castellano to someone on the flight back once and she commented that my accent was strange and it killed me.

The car ride from Ezeiza to the centre of BA was blind fear. I wanted to hide. I still feel it. Round at dinner at Solís, Vivian a friend of our family, did the maths. Of course you felt fear. Think about how tense tu papa must’ve been. His relationship with papapa and mamama was so strained. I saw it all the time. You could cut the tension with a knife. He would’ve been a state, your mother would’ve been a state on his account. Imagine you two, hiding in the backseat, feeling all that. Like heading into some sort of purgatory.

Alone in BA I walk the long corridors of Esmeralda and hear the wood creak underfoot and think of them all. The ghosts still there in that huge empty apartment. Mercedes my aunt said it terrified her to sleep there alone. But I don’t feel afraid. If mamama walked in to talk to me I would love it. Through the open door is the room where her and papapa died.

Every room full of the past.

When I was 28, one winter’s morning papa and I went rowing on the laguna. It was windy, twice we rescued his panama from the water. Half way to the gallinero, I broke down. Que pasa! he said. I can’t do this. Do what. I can’t do it all, I said in tears. I can’t teach Ruben about trees. I can’t talk to Analia about flowers and oeuf cocotte and borders, I can’t be their shrink and their confidant, I can’t give them orders, I can’t teach them about history, I can’t tell them what branches to prune, I can’t carve lakes out of the earth, I can’t make decisions about cows, I can’t earn their respect, their fear, their love.

I don’t know how.

Whatever you’re crying about, whatever you think it is, it’s not that, he said. It’s something else. Francamente, he said half-laughing.

Back in Blighty, scared as I was, I confronted none of it, and my relationship with that earth, that house, fell into shadow. It gnawed at me every day. The source of my biggest fear. An enormous black presence I chose to avert my gaze from. Papa would get sad, why do you not go there. I thought to tell him, but it was so hard. It felt like my failing. I didn’t tell anyone anything much back then.

He must have thought I didn’t care.

Why don’t you ever invite us out, my friends would clamour. I told myself it was another world, they wouldn’t get it. Now I realise it’s because I knew they would sense my weakness. It sounds silly and yet it had wormed its way inside me, it was fixed there like a simple pin. I didn’t even question it.

Matt went out there with Miguel once, we went for dinner on his return. What are you doing, he cried. Go you idiot. You have such a beautiful family out there, waiting for you. All they want to do is see you.

*

In February this year I awoke with the mother of all hangovers. Went to get a coffee and my card got declined. It came flooding back. Fuck. Alfie and I had got loose, extremely loose, gone deep about Argentina for hours. Your fear is your guide was our motto. We were shouting it by the end. Not before I’d booked a one way ticket to Argentina, club class, leaving in three days. I rang up BA, got a refund, and fell into a six week depression.

But somewhere on a rusted track wheels had clanked into motion.

After a post-covid summer of love, I booked a ticket. Followed my gut. I don’t quite know why, something inside told me I couldn’t not. My uncle was ill. The end of winter was approaching. Days of cold sun slowly lengthening, the sea of grass, fires lit, the birds. I made my way across the ocean.

I spent three weeks there. Three weeks of something exploding in slow motion, something freeing itself. With my cousin Francisco we went to Santa Helena. He left, I sat in the comedor alone. On the terrace. To Kakel with Fede, riding back, the smells of tierra and junco, the horse’s sweat under the recado, five years it’s been and feels like yesterday, I say to him. Literally, I did this yesterday. With Ivan to the far flung territories. Without papa I felt an envoy, in some small way like a patroncito. That I could fill this hole after all.

There is part of my old man that is so consumed by that place he can’t give it up. Mi casa, he calls it. And then when he’s tired and bored of the endless task of it all, he says I’m doing this all for you. Tu casa. You don’t have to be your dad! Mariano our administrator cried out in the comedor one evening. You do it your way. You have to be you.

When I was sad and anxious I thought I must clean my hands of it, I can’t bear for it to be there, the whole weight of this family, the responsibility of it all on me, thousands of miles away drinking craft beer in Hackney, that house, the womb that carries us all, lying empty. The fear would take me. The same fear I now had to go towards. As I felt the spirit of my grandmother accompany me to the loo I thought what madness. What am I even thinking. What would she think.

Back to the bath.

Sitting there looking out at the windows recalling the frogs. Reading what papa had written 50 years before. I realised I was the last, not the last, the latest link in the chain. And I had no right to break it, because if I did it would shatter into a million pieces, who knew what else might break with it. Like Muir said, tug on anything at all and you take the entire universe with you.

‘We stretch like those tiny frogs that stick to the glass of windows at night in the estancia; and when immobile resemble straw coloured moths, but wet and translucent, craving rain with protuberant eyes and trembling throats, taking aim at the insect dazzled by the light of the room we are watching from, the diminutive frogs let loose another long and avid tongue to swallow the insect with a shaking of its whole body. But they are still hungry. Because they never tire of being hungry.’

La Estancia, p. 396

In all endings are my beginnings, all time is eternally present. The same frogs stuck to the windows of our past. Of my father’s. The same ones mamama would’ve seen, and otramama before her. We move our fingers back along the chain, feeling it like Braille, like the rosary. Link after link after link.

*

I went rowing with Fede as the sun was falling.

A funny thing not feeling afraid. You don’t feel it leave, you just notice it isn’t there anymore. As if like dust it has evanesced onto the wind. Rising into the enormous sky, carried on the streams that keep the storks floating like suspended stars.

We shall not cease from exploration, said Eliot, and the end of all our exploring will be to arrive where we started, and know that place for the first time. I think I understand it now.

You change. And the world around you changes. You reshape it, remould it, banishing the ghosts of the past, and see it as it is, untangled from the weight of old memory. The memory is there still, but lighter. And you pile new memory on top. The happiest people in the world are those who have been released from some sort of shackle. Always in a state of becoming.

I can’t be who I’m not. I must be who I am.

Around us the world whizzes on.

The New Cross Blonde

When I am wrinkled and rickety and the pull of gravity weighs heavy on my bones and the autumn leaves of numbered years sway perilously on the branch, I will recall the summer of ’22 and the encounter with the New Cross blonde. I will remember it, like it was yesterday. Perhaps I will smile. More likely I will shudder.

It started like most good stories, in a pub.

The cycle over Tower Bridge the length of Old Kent Rd with heaving lung and thumping heart will be synonymous always with going to see my mate Tom. It was to his local The Fat Walrus I now beelined on a Friday of early July, skipping the lights on Lewisham Way, hanging a right.

Tom, his wife Louise, Skye peeking out from inside the realms of her pram, and some rotund bloke called George, Tom’s brother apparently, were sat in the beer garden, vacillating about the Prime Minister’s demise. I got there just in time to steer the conversation in a less vapid direction, told them some strange story that took place half way up a hill in Somerset. There are worse places to be than two pints down in a beer garden on a heady afternoon of summer in much loved company.

My round.

I walk through the pub and up to the bar. Behind an array of brass taps I see a mass of curls looking down at something on the countertop.

Hi, I say. She raises her head, sweeping the curls away from her face, which now reveals itself. I stop breathing. I stammer my order, my only thought is mate keep your shit together.

I did in fact think very little, just how she was so beautiful I could hardly see straight. I had no notion then, that a fortnight on from the moment time stopped dead for those few seconds at the bar, I’d be sitting here, a shell of my former self, in Y-fronts at 5.24am, writing a blogpost about it all. She poured the drinks. I made some comment about the heat. She smiled. I got out of there.

Back in the garden, I report back on what I’ve seen. Oh God, said Louise. Don’t do this again. I’m not! This girl is out of my league, I swear. So on we went, paddling the seconds of our afternoon downstream, watching our lives dwell for an instant in the present, pause, and pass into memory.

The conversation meanders its way back to Rishi Sunak, my stomach drumrolls and I decide to get some food. I approach, she smiles in recognition, I state my intention, she hands me a menu across the bar. Smile, wider this time. In me, same loss of balance, same heart skip, same pep talk.

*

My therapist and I skirted once the subject of bipolar disorder.

I don’t think that’s you, he said, it’s fairly extreme. But it is a spectrum, he went on, and you might conceivably be at the very shallow end. Over the years periods of depression had emerged alongside periods of intense high energy. This high energy, for the last month or so, had coloured my days. I wasn’t sleeping much, I was out a lot. The sun was shining, inside and out, lighting up my synapses, bouncing over everything I touched, heard, saw, all things glistened in the gloaming.

The best way to get to true happiness is to spread yourself out like a spider, thought Tolstoy, in a spider’s web of love, and catch in it ‘everything that comes along, be it an old woman, a young girl or a policeman’. Whatever Sprite had flown down to sit with me, the past month had felt precisely that, some spirit was pouring a glow out of me like a firefly, people were responding. My father said he’d rarely seen me so fragile. But I felt fantastic. Ride it to the last stop, said Alfie, just mind the dismount.

*

She was cracking up now.

Curls spilling over her face, incisors like a vampire. I was taking the piss out of the menu. Can’t you just write burger, where anywhere on here does it say burger. Look, burger sauce, she said giggling. Look, patty. Why not just fucking put burgers then, how hard can it be.

Lydi, she said. Domingo. I paid, went in for the fist-bump, drew back at the last. Dick, she said. Laughing. I walk back into the garden. Some strange sorcery is afoot, I tell them. I swear she was into me. Brows furrow. Even Skye looks sceptical.

Having not been seen in the garden for two hours, she appears, holding my burger, grinning. She walks back into the bar. My mates look at me in stunned disbelief. I know. I dunno what the hell is happening.

Louise has the why do I always have to watch you MeToo innocent girls in pubs look on her face. Five years ago a similar thing happened, a girl in a bar, younger, out of my league. Perhaps unconsciously the memory was fuelling me. Perhaps I just wanted to annoy Louise again. Perhaps it’s because she was unreal. But there was my proof, in the gurn on the faces of my incredulous friends, she had smiled at me.

Third pint.

Bosh.

Get it out the way, says Tom. I go up, she beams almost. Umm.. how about I get your number. She throws her head back. When are you leaving. An hour or so. Come back then. I do. Clear my throat the way you might when someone being talked about appears unexpectedly. She looks up. So… I say. You’re drunk. Nonsense. I’ve had four pints. If you want it, you’re gonna have to come back for it. I smile. What in like five minutes. No, next week.

Fine, I said. I will. Bye Lydi.

See ya.

*

A week passes.

I sit with a mate watching the Tour de France from midday Thursday onwards. Circa 6pm I get a voice in my head. It is time. Trouble is, I’m not doing well, I’m drunk, a little sketchy, the only thing that pushes me forward is the thought the cycle south might sober me up, and the fact that, as I keep trying to convince myself, I don’t really care. Better not leave it another week. An adventure beckons.

I get south. Haven’t sobered up at all. I somehow reason sitting in a neighbourhing pub for an hour over a pint will sort me out. It doesn’t.

I circle the pub on my bike doing intense breathing exercises hoping the south-easterly oxygen will work some magic. Fuck it. I walk in. She’s at the bar. Bandana and a transformers Tee. Hey, I say. She smiles. Drink? Yea. I try and banter but nothing lands. I sense my shoulders hunching, my face losing colour, I am hollow. I take my pint to the garden.

Down the phone, my new mate Will gives an extremely simple one word instruction. Abort. Just get out of there. I concur, but I don’t really care, I tell him, I really don’t. At that exact moment she walks past, smiles at me. Unmistakably. Fuck it, I’m going in. From the phone I hear a noo-… I cut him off.

Hey.

Hey.

If there is one element of this story that makes me shudder, it’s the sunflower. I fish it out of my backpack. She takes it, not entirely unhappily. Where did you get this. My flat, I say. Hackney. I came all the way. Oh yea? She doesn’t seem that impressed. Maybe her geography isn’t great.

So what you reckon? You said if I came back I could have it. She looks a little sad. Not sad, maybe the way you might look at a puppy who keeps falling over. You’re not gonna like my answer. Go on then.

Nope.

Sorry.

Hmm.

My week-ago-self would’ve cracked up, parried, protested, would’ve brought it round, would’ve sold her my prowess for recalling rap lyrics, sold her a dawn cycle down the canal, sold her a future, the two of us walking entwined down Lewisham Way listening to Springsteen. But at that point I was holding onto the floor. I’d lost before I walked in.

Why did I walk in.

I stood by the bar for a moment or so. She looked at me, began to pour a pint for someone, my shame barraged me, my hope whimpered, I gave her an exit strategy. Do you want me to leave? She cocked her head to one side, smiling sadly.

Yes please mate.

Walking out of that pub, the chill of some winter swept through me, above a dark presence hovered. For about a minute and 12 seconds I felt like a fucking failure. I felt old. Like me and the carpet slipper guy recalling all this in 2069 were one and the same. I felt like I’d never find anybody. I saw her in some pub with her mates, laughing at the story of the creep, saw a sunflower lying discarded on an unforgiving pavement.

Maybe all in this world is energy. You could be a 4ft tall Andre the Giant and believe your hype and get the girl. Perhaps the stories we tell ourselves are all we have. We begin and end with our own self-perception. Being honest, I knew it was never going to go anywhere. It was all ego. I couldn’t believe this girl had shown interest and my ego had goaded me. You’re a fool not to go back. But I was a mess. I had none of the flex I’d shown on the first meeting, my Sprite had gone awol.

She sensed it I’m sure.

And yet, once those 72 seconds had elapsed, I began to feel something else. The chill warmed up, the shadow departed, in its place a new emotion began to materialise. Something like pride. I’d done my best. I’d conquered my fear. I’d crashed and burnt, hard. But I’d gone on an adventure. Had something to show for it. Not much, but something. I cycled back through the New Cross night, and felt the Sprite soar down to be at my side.

It’s not the world’s greatest story, says Alfie.

Why? I say, offended. What better story is there. Look mate we’ve heard about you walking into a pub to see about a girl more than a few times. We get it. You’re not some comic book geek plucking up the courage to shoot your shot, you’ve done this before. You’re cooler than that. It doesn’t fly.

What are you talking about. Try living in my fucking head bro. The mingo you see is not the guy hanging out in my dome, I can tell you that. I’m scared shitless. Less so than you think, he says. We go back and forth over text chatting gas, the following morning the waters calm and I get a message.

*

The New Cross blonde.

Off she walks into the realms of an alternate destiny, as do I. She was unreal. Probably gets that kinda stuff from guys all the time, probably gets annoying. Probably no one as creepy as balding sunflower guy. Maybe I’m wrong, maybe she went to bed that night thinking that was pretty cool. Maybe she wasn’t ready.

Who cares.

It’s not about her.

It’s about me having the guts to do things that scare the crap out of me, and failing. And realising that success or failure doesn’t matter. The next day, Tom sent me the Roosevelt speech. Not the critic who counts, but the man in the arena, who if he fails he fails while daring greatly, that one.

You should go back for round 3, he said. Ha, reckon. I think this all has to do with the Sunscreen line. Do something every day that scares you. That’s the story. I don’t think I do enough of that. Struggling every day to preserve my emotions, to keep me from feeling something I’m afraid I won’t have the guts to feel.

Who knows.

I like what Gloria says to a befuddled Billy on a bus cruising through Venice in White Men Can’t Jump. Sometimes when you win you actually lose, and sometimes when you lose you actually win. Sometimes when you win or lose you actually tie.

I crashed and burnt. But felt alive. I felt fear, and met it with courage, felt desolation, and met it with pride. And came back with a story I suppose.

Might print it out, cycle back one day, leave it on the bar.

I Want To See Mountains Frodo Mountains

1,268km I did, totted it up in my book.

Washed my face in the salt sea of Normandy off the ferry, saw the Med from the plane turned swamp grey by angry clouds in Marseille 12 days later. I got on a train too, which was cheating. I saw France, as always, perhaps a little differently this time. The last thing my mother said before I left was for God’s sake please don’t send any more photos of bloody croissants.

I got back filled to the brim.

The journey did what it said on the tin. I had journeyed. Maybe more than anything I had breathed clean air for ten hours a day. And felt sun on my face. And sweated out the bad stuff. And felt alive. And scared. And stressed. And a bit brave maybe. Just getting the hell away from London was the ticket.

My old man said my mother was worried, that I always get back from these things and feel sad. But nothing of the sort. I felt supercharged. And I set to write, to stop it curdling into a soup of unmemory. And even though nothing I write would come close to bottling it, still a soupçon was better than forgetting.

For the first few days I was irritated. The townie in me resented being sat on a bike in a heat wave for eight hours a day. I felt critical, judgemental, le sandwich jambon fromage didn’t have the right amount of butter, the double café was a watery mess. A celestial beam shone through my Perrier one morning and the light on the paper had a simple message for me.

Sharpen up your shit.

I get my father’s mandatory sightseeing out of the way.

To Chartres, the famous stained glass. And I am underwhelmed, because of the people and the cleaning of the old stone which makes it look new and not real, I prefer the innumerable empty churches of villages I pass through, a tenth the size of Chartres and maybe more sacred.

I cross the Loire to Chambord, the hunting lodge built by Francis 1st, who diverted the course of a river to run past it. Never seen a building like it. The scale. Leonardo da Vinci designed a double helix staircase to run up its centre, so those ascending wouldn’t cross paths with those coming down. When the Luftwaffe bombed Paris an army of volunteers packed up all the works of art in the Louvre and in an almighty convoy took them out of the city. The halls of Chambord became their storage facility.

It riles me.

The guilt I feel for not seeing enough. Every year my old man gives me the same diatribe. What papa doesn’t get, I tell myself, is this is not cycle tourism. This isn’t swanning around the Loire to stop for a Panaché. This is crossing a landmass to dip an ankle in two oceans. This is touring. You can’t spend half a day deliberating purchases at a marché aux puces, you have to move.

It is not one cathedral’s stained glass. It is the weird villages, the cocked heads, the sleepy boulangerie queues, the cattle-bells, the bière in the late afternoon that disappears in two gulps, the vieil homme on the bench, not spoken to a soul all day, the birdsong above your tent before dawn, legs like concrete, the same bird shitting everywhere, on your tent, on your dreams, your mood like thunder, your mood calming, un petit café, one begins again.

This year I saw a France like frayed rope, where I normally see sheen I saw cracks. Hamlets of men smoking outside Tabacs muttering ‘c’est le bordel’ before going inside to bet, sad faces wheeling trolleys outside supermarkets, finely proportioned squares lined by planes missing any signs of life, ghostly whispers carried on the wind.

And also too the smiling faces of paysans, lined and curious, keen to know my trajectory, picking my bike up to weigh it, breaking into laughter, a lady in a service station handing me two cans of Perrier and a Powerade, declaring proudly après l’effort, le réconfort.

At Châteaudun the youths run riot and dragrace round town til 5am playing rap from car stereos and terrorise the old populace deaf to the shouts of ta gueule! That evening, sat in a snooker hall the size of a small conference centre eating Algerian lamb with four Irish Travellers in the corner trading stories, and later in bed, sleepless, hearing the screech of brakes and burning rubber, I am so happy I don’t know what to do with myself. The internet would’ve got me nowhere near this place. For ten days I go nowhere near it.

My bro texts.

A stripper’s knickers.

Bit of Colombian for the inclines.

A crowd of villagers debate my route earnestly, I ask directions, get advice, I like not knowing where I’m going or where I’ll end, being untethered to the world beyond my eyes, beyond what I can see or smell or feel. Jean Baptiste fixes my rear axel at a bike shop and sends me on his favourite road, la Corniche du Drac, into the hills above Grenoble.

I camp at the bottom of a wheat field. At 1am two dogs start barking madly, I fear them leading an irate farmer to my tent, I hear a growl in the wood to my left and know I will get no sleep. I pack up all my things by the light of a head-torch, walk through the night along a road under the moon. It is warm and so quiet and I feel deep in an adventure. I sleep by the Mairie under the lights of a church and dream of large women.

For four days I am in the Hautes-Alpes. I want to see mountains Frodo, mountains. I climb all morning out of my saddle, it is ten degrees cooler at altitude than down in the valley, in and out of shadow, clawing at the gradient, getting high off the ache, I reach the top, down down down the other side. Swooping, leaning into the turns.

The ancients worshipped mountains as Gods, the clouds that cloaked the hillsides were bringers of rain, their fiery insides were the earth’s heart. I think there is nothing like being among them. Perhaps because I am never further from being found.

Cime de La Bonette is the highest road in the alps. 26km to the top takes me three hours. I am getting old. My mother is right, you’re not 25 darling, go easy on your poor legs. I make it. A loaded touring bike above 2,000 metres gets its fair share of ooh la las.

Freewheeling down the other side is…

A man at a campsite called Gilles offers me a leftover tomato from his pan and teaches me about fly-fishing for ten minutes. I return the pan, pay my compliments to the chef, he smiles, la meilleure sauce du monde, à dit ma grand-mère, c’est la faim.

There is another touring bike in the campsite. This is Kevin from Jura. His smile is something else. I’m not just here for a holiday, he says, I’m here to cure myself. What do you mean. I had an accident, cycling back drunk one evening. I hit my head, I couldn’t work for six months, I have terrible tinnitus. The longer I cycle, the more my symptoms disappear. So touring literally cures you? Yes! He breaks into laughter.

On some days, especially in the blind heat of the afternoon, when all had found shade and something in me insisted on cycling, I would get angry and would start to wonder, am I just rehashing a tired formula. Why am I still doing this. I did feel a little alone, not alone, I mean I was fine, but more like I wouldn’t mind so much sharing this with someone. Or sharing life with someone.

The Christopher McCandless thing.

That’s almost it.

Well not remotely, but the last thing is this.

When I’d last cycled, in autumn, up from Toulouse to the coast, I’d been in a state of openness. And spent most of my time crying. Not from sadness, just overwhelmed by the marvel of things. Everything I saw seemed to be bursting with resonance. Looking out to sea was looking aeons into the past, it floored me, to a blubbering wreck. Susanna, eleven, who lives in the Pembury estate next door said she’s seen me crying in the street, I tried to tell her sometimes when I’m happy I cry, she shook her head. No. You were sad, she said.

But it had disappeared, that feeling.

Like a friend departing. I missed that well of emotion. It probably meant I was healing over, from all that had happened in the last two years. But I felt like a husk, immune, so in a way I did wonder if the cycling might open me up again, get me to the place of sensitivity I sought. A couple of times my face cracked, walking under the moon for example, but I couldn’t tell if I was making it crack.

Down in Aix on my last night, sat in this very posh suite, the kind which looks nice and nothing works, I drank my complimentary half bottle of rosé and felt proud.

That something in me in my twenties, not even a healthy process, one that had made me want to cross continents on my bike as a form of self-flagellation, had now deposited me, calmer and more upright, in my late thirties, with a confidence to traverse a country, alone, up over hill and dale and mountain pass and meadow sweet, and breath in the experience, to restore me.

And I don’t often feel proud.

But still I couldn’t cry. Not in the way I hoped. And that made me sad. Because I hadn’t found what I was looking for. Like I’d found the gold, but not the Arkenstone.

POSTCRIPT

Ten days after returning from the continent, I am on the phone to my mother, she is driving. I tell her about what I saw at the weekend, half way up a hill in Somerset. How when everyone had gone to bed, I had stood there with my arms inside my shirt for warmth, shades on, just staring, for twenty minutes straight, at these people, the likes of whom I’d never seen. As if they had come up through the roots from the bowels of an otherworldly realm. They were fairies, woodland creatures, not from the earth.  

Well darling, my mother said calmly, and my mother never really says this stuff, ever, maybe those people have been on that hill for a thousand years, maybe you were looking a thousand years into the past. I think about her words now and the hairs on my arm stand on end.

For the last two weeks, since that hill, since that weekend, I am open again. I feel involved in the world, in the smile, the glance, the sway of the leaf, the sunlight on my pillow, perhaps like never before. I feel a glow inside me, and what’s more I can share it, I feel people responding. Something came back with me from that ball of human energy and delight, some sprite, some puppeteer. Pulling its strings, dancing and laughing and pirouetting in the air. Everything makes me cry now.

And I am thankful.

Last Man on The Earth

My mate Wilma went cycling once, met a bunch of Croatians on a hillside by a burger van where he stopped to eat. They crowded round him, interrogating this curious character on a bicycle. How many years? 28 he said. You have home? No, I rent a room. A few of them laughed. You have car? No license, he explained. Now they were all laughing. You have wife yes? No. No wife? I don’t even have a girlfriend. By now they were pissing themselves. No car. No home. No wife. 28?! They fell into hysterics.

A decade has passed. Wilma has the full house.

Me, I have an L-shaped sofa and a trainer collection.

*

How would you know if you were the last man on Earth?


I don’t guess you would know it. You’d just be it.


Cormac McCarthy, The Road

I woke up this year and came to a realisation. I was the last man on Earth. The last one of all my male friends to not be married, betrothed, or a dad. I mean there’s a couple left, but they have their reasons. Me? I have no good reasons. I just woke up one morning and this was the state of affairs. Picking my way through a life of no compromise, supermarket shop for one, Netflix n chill for one, bedtime story for one.

How do I feel.



Fine, replied his denial.

Put Columbo on the case and he’d sniff something out. Coming to the end of a period of getting over someone, I suppose. A necessary time for being alone, build yourself back up into a normal human. My problem is these periods tended to extend themselves. They’d go on for years. Which came down to being too okay on my jax I think.

Putting myself out there felt like something I ought to do, never something I went towards. I might meet someone randomly and wake up thinking about them then maybe I’d try and coax them into a date. But my brain didn’t work the other way round. I couldn’t decide to date, book some sweet joint, and try and lure someone into the back of a van.

Love, the irresistible desire to be irresistibly desired.

Robert Frost

*

There are two ways to buy a jumper.

One. You wake up one morning and decide you need a jumper. You hit Oxford Street, initiate your jumper-crawl. Six shops later, with that horrible film of sweat only trying on clothes can pour out of you, you mull over your options in some high street sushi joint. You spring for the best of the six.

Two. You’re walking home after work, picking your way through those cobbled streets of Soho. You glance in at a shop window. A jumper. Staring back at you. You shrug, go in. Do you have that in XL? Last one in sale, your lucky day says the guy. You try it on. Boom. And yet making your way home that evening, you had no intention of buying anything. You might say the jumper came to you.

Am I too old for the jumper theory.

Closing in on 40. Not sure time is on my side. Can I afford to wait, do I go and buy the best one I can find. Maybe I’ll spend the next five years mulling it over. Because I’m a man, and I can? Does that sound fair.

And while I do I watch the furrowed brow of my mother, who’d love another grandchild or two, the barking of my old man who insists the only thing that can save me now is a kid. I think of mates who tell me quite seriously I’m missing out, I’d be a great dad. I’d like to be. Last time I checked I didn’t have a womb.

Only once in the last five years did I feel the unmistakable lifeforce to want to go and meet someone. And I walked into a pub on a winter’s evening and stumbled over my words but she was patient and it happened. If it hadn’t, I would’ve met someone in the coming months, I’m sure. That type of energy was pouring out of me.

I don’t feel that now.

How happy are my contemporaries. How hard are long-term relationships. How much do they let in existential angst, the longing to have done things differently. There I was complaining about some crap, and as Bobbie eluded her mother’s grasp and beelined for the dryer in the park loos for the fifth time in two minutes, Florence looked at me and said Mingo, don’t take for granted how much unknown there is in your life right now.

Jung warned that we are all living out a myth, yet we don’t know which one. Be mindful yours is not a tragedy, he said. What if I never meet anyone. What if I never have kids. The sweet empty life of no compromise. Would it be so bad.

In the depth of my solitude I admit I’d like to talk to someone about toothpaste. I’d like to show them something I read in a book. Ask them what they think. I’d like to go together and pick out some earthenware at Ikea. Try on a different brand of Y-fronts and watch them frown. Wake up knowing that what to do that day was a decision for two. I finally dig sleeping on my own, I tell myself. But sometimes the bed feels big. Sometimes the pillow I wake up holding could use a heartbeat.

*

The other day, on the side of a bus I see an ad. ‘Thursday’. A new anti-dating app dating thing, a whole night of single people. Rebound Week. It piques my interest. A night where you go into a room and know everyone else in there is after the same thing, walks by the canal and romcoms on a Sunday afternoon.

I set up a profile, go along to Nikki’s in Shoreditch, garms none too shabby, iPad in hand. It smells of bleach and broken promises. Seeing a few girls over by the bar I inhale the biting wind of destiny. Simone, she says. I’m with someone. I thought this was a single’s night. She scowls. I feel someone shine a flashlight in my face, could be the feds. About to do a runner I look again and see a mirror, the flashlight is a strobe bouncing off the top of my head.

I never made it to Thursday. Once it became clear I had to set up a profile to attend the night, I realised it was just like any other dating app I’d had the good fortune to avoid thus far. Plus who was gonna spring for a shiny domed 38 yr old with with an iPad sticking out of his pocket.

*

A Bangladeshi once explained to me from the front seat of his taxi how we have it wrong in the West. You think of love love love. Arranged marriage. It is the best way, he said. You have trust, respect, admiration. You build a partnership over time. Perhaps growing into love is a better way to do it after all. Join up with someone, work shit out. I heard someone say once that love is not a feeling, but an action. If you start with mad passion, at some point the comedown is gonna take you out.

What is left over when being in love has burned away.

The right place.

Something I’d stuck in my scrapbook years ago, the kind of thing you’d find on some cheesy Instagram story, had stayed with me. I liked it a lot. It seemed to be the kernel.

The grail.

Expend your energy on you, doing good shit, read good stuff, send your mother messages at the right times, go for dawn runs, smile at the dude by M&S who had a longer night than you, estimable people do estimable things, go out and have fun now and again, don’t beat yourself up about it, be the guy in the mirror you high Five, trying on the new shirt that looks fresh because the person wearing it thinks he’s worth something.

Make a habit of it.

And then imperceptibly, along some distant day into the future, perhaps something or someone will come round a corner.

And you’ll be ready.

Or more likely, because coal without tremendous pressure remains coal, in five years time when you’re still single you can hit up Thursday because iPads will be smaller in 2028 and no-one will give a crap.

Time Travel Technology and the Beatles

I was late to the party, now I don’t want to leave.

I was home, must’ve been 9ish. Weeknight, early April. Lighting was tight, the mathmos mood lamp glowed softly from the table-top. I decided on a whim to put Revolver on, it’d been years. On came Taxman. One twoooo threeee fuoooorr. Daaa da bom-ttsch daa dah dah. Something happened. On it went, Eleanor Rigby, I’m Only Sleeping, Here There Everywhere, She Said She Said.

It took me over, flooding me.

I flipped the record in a haze. By the time the fugue-guitar of And Your Bird Can Sing hit my earhole I was possessed. Standing there in the centre of the room, swaying, eyes the size of tennis balls, holding a can of beer my Revolver-shot brain was incapable of registering.

Apart from Kiss Me Kate and story tapes we had one cassette in the car growing up. Some say Revolver is the greatest album of all time; no bad music education for my bro and I, sat in the back of a Vauxhall hatchback cruising country lanes watching the 80s give way to the 90s. We knew it by heart.

Classics aside, my Beatles knowledge stopped there. What had I been doing. Before the night was out I’d got through Sgt. Pepper’s twice, ordered Rubber Soul on vinyl, and read the Wikipedia entry, all 15,892 words of it. For the last 33 days I have listened to nothing else. Not a single tune. I can’t manage to.

*

The late spring of 2022, as the jasmine snuck through the open window filling the flat, will be always now my Beatles days. I figured one of two things. My friends were on holiday, or they no longer liked me, for that month of April all I did was sit on the floor with my back to the radiator listening through, album by album. Learning the different sides, the progression of songs, the story lines, seeking out podcasts in the day for context, once I had an album sussed, I’d move onto another.

I began to time travel.

It was the sixties, poster of Paul on my wall, inhaling Beatlemania, waiting for any mention of them in newspapers, on the radio. Fanzines in the post. New Musical Express. May 26th, 1967, the day Sgt. Pepper’s dropped. Queueing at Her Majesty’s Voice.

Cycling home, shutting the door. Putting the needle on, listening to the whole thing through, once, twice, a third time. Hearing the orchestra crescendo of A Day In The Life.

Feeling my world shift on its axis.

Jump forward 55 years, same thing different date, Rubber Soul, Magical Mystery Tour, Abbey Rd, Let It Be, complete attention, feeling my brain flip, arm hair stand on end, tracing the story of this musical miracle, thinking about Rick Rubin’s line.

That they managed all that in 7 years is proof of the existence of God.

What was most nuts was imagining how me back in the 60s would consume music. All the waiting. Waiting on news, sitting alone, with a pal, going over the same album, start to finish, again and again, listening parties, writing my name on the record, taking it to someone’s house, getting it back at the end of the night, the walk back, smiling, songs sounding out in my mind.

Imagine having that experience, I thought, the anticipation, the expectation, the wonder, the space to think, the revery. The dance of wanting something and having to wait for it. Sat back against the radiator, grinning. Do we get that anymore. Do we know how to wait, I wondered. Does our culture let us wait for things.

A guy called Johan Hari wrote a book this year called Stolen Focus, about a generation of people who can no longer concentrate on anything. Dwindling attention spans, he said, weren’t just down to willpower, it was an all-out assault on our senses by big-tech and beyond. To serve their own means by matrixing us up to the mainframe, feasting on our attention.

What emerged was the internet as a kind of God, where attention was worship, at the deftest click of a button. What hope did we have, in the face of what a 2003 David Foster Wallace termed ‘too much good stuff’.

My time-travelling did one thing above any. Journeying back, imagining what it would be like to hear these songs for the first time, I filled in the gaps around me, and lived that life, a life of pauses, of boredom, of room to think and feel and wait. What did that kind of space open up for me. What did life, in 2022, without any of that space, wall me off from.

THE BOX

Johan Hari said another thing. Without the help of a box he wouldn’t have been able to write his book. Every morning he put his phone inside a perspex box and set the timer for four hours. The lid locked, for that time he had uninterrupted access to whatever he was writing. No texts, no emails, no temptation.

It came in the post, sat on the table for a few days unopened. On a monsoon-April morning landlocked at home I thought fuck it, opened it, stuck the batteries in, and unplugging my wifi lead from the wall I put it in, setting the timer for 3 hours. Looking at it there on the table, I didn’t think much. Only how it wasn’t going to win any design awards any time soon.

I set about trying to write. When my attention waned, it searched for a rabbit hole and found nothing. I pottered. Made a coffee. Stared out of the window. And out of boredom I simply began to write again. What was this strange sorcery. On it went, for hours. And as it did a peace began to descend. One I hadn’t felt for ages.

It became my ally. I’d have it on most days, five hours or more. The difference in forcing myself not to look at bullshit, and having no access to it, was cavernous. Obliging me to work in a way my willpower couldn’t get me to. Without this itch to scratch my brain began to calm. One day, for want of anything else to do, I sat in front of a lily for ten minutes, waiting to see if it would open, and it felt meaningful, just me and some flora, vibing out.

To make a prairie it takes a clover and one bee,
One clover, and a bee.
And revery.
The revery alone will do,
If bees are few.

Emily Dickinson

Foster Wallace described the moment when we finally find ourselves alone, and the dread that comes with that, that comes to us when we have to be quiet. It seems significant we don’t want things to be quiet anymore, he said.

At the same time there is another part of us that is the opposite. That is hungry for silence and quiet, and thinking very hard about the same thing for maybe half an hour or more, rather than just thirty seconds. Of standing and looking at the branches of a tree, or listening to the birds. And this part of us doesn’t get fed. And what happens is this thing makes itself felt in our bodies, as a kind of dread, deep inside us.

*

I didn’t want to write something tired on how the internet is bad. More a story about imaging what life was like before we had to field this all-out attack on our attention. Memes, emojis, dissemination of information, zoom meetings, google earth, Conspiracy Keanu, the world would be a poorer place without it all.

I once heard an advertising CEO say before a throng of students (of which I was one) how life was fundamentally richer now online than off. That is a mad statement. That is Bladerunner bullshit. Nothing I read or watch on the internet can make me as happy as long meandering conversations or looking into someone’s eyes or cycling for hours to sit by a stream and eat Emmental.

When things get smarter and more shiny we run towards them without thinking what we might be leaving behind. My Beatles odyssey made me deeply jealous of 60s kids growing up with all that space to sit in. It made me worried I was losing touch with emotions I could only access by switching off. Because they would only come inside the space that pause granted me.

Music is not in the notes, said Debussy, but in the silence between them. Memory, saudade, the Brazilian word for deep longing and nostalgia. To want, to really want something. To think about it til it drove me nuts. Could I really plumb those depths with constant interruption from another update on some pointless evanescent newsfeed.

*

We’re going have to develop some real machinery inside our guts to turn off pure unalloyed pleasure. Because the technology is just going to get better and better, and it’s going to get easier and easier, and more convenient and more pleasurable to sit alone, with images on a screen given to us by people who do not love us but want our money. And that’s fine in low doses. But if it’s the basic main-staple of our diet, and I say this in a very meaningful way, we’re going to die.

David Foster Wallace, 1998

*

After working my way through both sides of the White Album and listening to Abbey Rd til the needle bled, I felt the ardent fire of my Beatles days begin to dim. Listening to new music was difficult, there was no harder act to follow. Revolver remained my favourite, just. My mate Tommy told me not to worry, that before long I would be back there. I would have another Beatles moment. It would all be as new as ever.

Sitting there against my radiator one night I tried to put it all into context, and I ca-…

Fuck it.


enough

STOP.



THIS MADNESS.



YOU.



YOU ARE GOING TO DIE.



PUT THE DEVICE DOWN.



THROW THAT SHIT OUT THE WINDOW.



LOOK THEM IN THE EYE.



TELL THEM.



RUN.



TO THE WOODS.



GO.



GO TO THE WOODS.



GO TO THE WOODS.



GO TO THE WOODS.



GO TO THE WOODS.



GO TO THE WOODS.



GO TO THE WOODS.



GO TO THE WOODS.



GO TO THE WOODS.



GO TO THE WOODS.



GO TO THE WOODS.



GO TO THE WOODS.



GO TO THE WOODS.



GO TO THE WOODS.



GO TO THE WOODS.



GO TO THE WOODS.



GO TO THE WOODS.



GO TO THE WOODS.



GO TO THE WOODS.



GO TO THE WOODS.



GO TO THE WOODS.



GO TO THE WOODS.



GO TO THE WOODS.



GO TO THE WOODS.



GO TO THE WOODS.



GO TO THE WOODS.



GO TO THE WOODS.



GO TO THE WOODS.

Flat White

A story about doing good or maybe its opposite.

A flat white is one part espresso to four parts milk to one part foam. These days you go into a self-respecting coffee shop and order a cappuccino and the place comes to a standstill. I wouldn’t call the Costa at the end of my road self-respecting really, they have no strong opinions on what you want to drink.

I remember the day I worked out that ordering a cortado in a Costa was the same as getting a flat white. A cortado should be more like a macchiato but the high street coffee chains always go big on sizing. Every time I did this I was saving 45p, I worked out getting one of these four mornings a week for ten years was 936 quid in my pocket. Whatever was running through my mind that morning as I sat down in the corner seat I can’t tell you a tiny part of it wasn’t thumbing imaginary banknotes.

When he first walked through the door what I saw were his eyes, the whites of them. In each one two pupils floated like black pins on a white board. I thought he must have lost something, left his wallet behind or something. But as I kept watching I saw that inside him was a terrible fear and his eyes were burning from it. As if he was running for his life from something, or worse he had lost something he didn’t know how to look for and it was burning him alive.

The guy with the apron on scooted around the counter and ushered him out of the glass door and he accepted this without protest as if it had happened before. On the other side of the glass I watched him shuffle off down the street. For a few months this was the last I saw of him.

And then one afternoon of grey November from behind I saw a figure, trousers legs flailing, limping down the road, I recognised him from his gait and his powerful arched shoulders. Where was he off to I thought, what propulsion drove him forwards. A month later in the churchyard one day he looked up at me from a bench as I walked by. Again I saw burning, a pleading from some place within him that had been lost for who knows how long, singed into position by some force.

The next time I saw him I found it hard to believe he was still alive. It was a year later. He had looked so gaunt and so close to breaking point I couldn’t imagine where he had spent all this time, how he had survived the cold. He was asking for money like he always was. People were moving away alarmed, it was his eyes maybe or the sheen on his skin that in spite of the cold reflected the light of the dim day. He was in another place altogether, the touching point between this world and his came only from the repetitive sounds clawing their way from his throat. How could someone be that far from safety I thought.

Three months later we went on a night out to this underground bar just opened down some steps off the pedestrianised stretch of the main road. It was Valentine’s Day. I remember because this guy in there smelling of cigarettes high-fived me and told me for Valentine’s Day he had given his girl two orgasms. The place was trying to be cool but was cooler than that in a different way altogether. It was no bigger than a small off-license, low lighting, low ceiling, that type of thing going on where as soon as you walked across the threshold you were like sweet.

Just by the entrance the bar ran along a wall lined with a select group of spirits, behind which a couple of guys and a girl were busy tending, all smiles and eye contact. We sat on high stools next to a group of three and after reading the cocktail list my girlfriend went for a Tahini Martini, Vodka, Crème de Chataigne, tahini, vanilla custard and charcoal powder, weirdest thing on the menu as per. They had this Belgian beer on tap and I chose one of those.

By then we were already on our way, we’d been drinking up the road at this wine shop with a chef at the end of a long table making small plates. They had the balance right and the wines and all of it, everyone in there was laughing and looked alive. After four or five glasses we were headed home and happened upon the bar by chance, she gave me a tug on the arm, persuading me, we went in.

Right next to the bar was the dance floor, no bigger than a service box on a tennis court, around which were a couple of alcoves. The DJ was in a pink velour onesie taking herself too seriously, eyes fixed on her setup, acknowledging no-one, but the tunes were sweet and we took our drinks over, my girlfriend another martini and me an Isle of Dogs. Scotch, Vermouth, cranberry and lemon zest, eight minutes in the making but you could taste the seconds.

I remember thinking how fun it was to be out with her, just us, dancing, laughing at each other, needing no-one, the kind of scene I knew in the moment if I wasn’t in I’d be staring at from some corner thinking it was all I wanted. My girlfriend dances a bit like water moves and mostly I’d find myself stood still just gawping. Like I would forget she was mine or for the time being she liked me, eyes locked-on gazing at her lines silhouetted against the lights, shapes weaving and gliding in the gloaming. It was our third Valentine’s and down there in that dark room holding her close sipping the scotch feeling the music reverberate in me, was a moment to bottle and put away to sip from when the grey days drew in.

Eventually we grew tired and not a little drunk and decided to call it a night. We got our coats, nodded to the bartenders in thanks and walked up the stairs to street level. The February night kissed our cheeks and we grabbed each other for comfort. A few feet down the road the DJ was sitting on a bench in a big fur coat in a group of four smoking under a streetlamp looking like the opening scene to a music video. Recalling her antipathy behind the booth made me a little upset in my drunkenness, I never liked people who are unfriendly or who reject friendliness, never really understood how you wouldn’t grow out of trying to look cool.

It was either very late or a strange kind of Friday, but for the group in the music video and us beginning our meander home the street was empty.

Then I saw him.

A shadow moving in the darkness, stumbling towards us. I knew immediately without looking, his presence was unmistakable. His powerful upper body stretched out to a sinew beneath his shirt, the sheen on his skin, his eyes aflame. As I watched him from the corner of my eye approach the bench I wondered again how he was alive. What had he been doing all this time, walking the streets without rest. All this time I had slept and woken, drunk and laughed, embraced, sat alone, all this time where had he been. How far down a wrong road had he wandered.

Love is not the fabric of everything, the voice had said. Beauty is the fabric of everything. Our reaction to seeing the beauty is love. The primary force of the world is not conjured of itself. When we start witnessing the beauty the love will come.

The crew waved him away like a bug. He tried again, and again they said no. No more than a pestilence to avoid, a fly the wrong side of a window to swat. In it raged, coursing over the barrier walls, surging onto the land to wipe it clean. I disengaged from my girlfriend and walked over to the blue lights of the Nationwide with my card in hand, stuck it in the machine and started pressing buttons. I entered ten and waited for the bank note. Still the floodwater continued to pile over the barrier, stressing the concrete to its limit. My card reinserted, I scanned the figures and hit a hundred. As I had anticipated by this time he was on my shoulder but I felt no tension in him. He only waited, perhaps it was hope, maybe my countenance towards him showed neither fear nor disgust and he could sense it.

I folded the notes over and motioned to his right hand which he held out as I placed them inside, closing my other hand over his the way you might tip a man in a hotel bar. He took them without looking down, staying stock-still, staring at me. As I looked into his eyes I saw something descend, as the fire continued to ebb another force rose up to take its place but what that was I didn’t know, whatever thing was coming in seemed to be washing another away, like a wave receding, something like a fear subsiding.

Adam, he said. No family, none mate. Just me yea yea yea around here. A few years a few years mate. He spoke hurriedly and excitedly. He was so grateful, bursting to express his gratitude. I can’t believe it, he kept saying. Over and over. I told him I had seen him about many times I tried to tell him somehow that he wasn’t a ghost that I noticed him always and that I thought of him but in my drunkenness it came out a bit shit. What good was it going to do. Was it going to make him feel better. Was he was even listening. Are you okay, I said finally. I tried looking into his eyes kindly. He kept saying thank you. What about drugs. You can tell me, I don’t care. No drugs mate. None of that. None of that. Then he held out his arms to me and we embraced. I felt his strength and sinew and parched muscle and I felt a warmth and I don’t know if just to hold someone meant a whole lot to him, was it just gratitude. I hoped it did. I felt something good from holding him. For a couple of seconds we stood there in the lamp lit pedestrianized street in each others arms, as the crew on the bench smoked, as my girlfriend a few doors down wandered the street answering a message, and a siren in the distance hung on the wind, all was still.

What have you done. Listen.

Your brother’s blood cries out to me from the ground.

He took the notes in his hand. Taking no care to conceal them he roamed down the road clasping the wad of cash like a tennis ball, looking back at me shouting thank you I can’t believe it thank you. Put them in your pocket I shouted smiling.

I re-joined my girlfriend and we walked back home. I didn’t feel much like telling her what had happened. In the end what came out was some garbled point about hating the way people could be so ignored. She listened as she always did to the end without judgement, thinking the words through, and another whump from the scotch hit my brain trailing my thoughts towards a void and we fell into silence. Not an unhappy one. A wordless contented kind of peace.

I didn’t walk back that way for five days. I took the long way to the shops the other side of the park. I found it hard to look around me, like there were eyes trained on me. For the first few days I saw no beauty anywhere. Just a vision of a body lying alone, cold and still and forgotten. The weeks drew on, the cortisol that had charred me dry as I had lain awake that morning in the dark, staring at the ceiling as the grey light clawed its way sadly through the shitty blinds of the enormous window and across it as my girlfriend lay sleeping next to me, began to subside. But the embers continued to burn, as if a flame somewhere had been extinguished and the heat had been transferred and taken its place to burn in me.

Ten years it’ll take me to save 936 quid on coffee. I worked it out on my laptop calculator. The calculator won’t tell me what a hundred and ten pounds did to him. It didn’t save him, I know that. The last thing it did was save him. I sit in the Costa by the window sometimes and drink my drink, the 45p saving one, and no longer thumb imaginary bank notes and I look out across the road and I hope to see him wander by.

Today Was A Good Day

I wake up with the dream swimming in my head. The girl’s face. The way she looked at me. I feel some hero complex, I must’ve saved her from a situation. I scrutch back in bed, stretch, feel dappled light through eyelids, one of those nights when some sorcery went to work, magic dust sprinkled over a sleeping body, the dawn through the blinds bathes the room in orange.

Today could be top 5.

Just waking up in tha morning gotta thank God
I dunno but today seems kinda odd

Ice Cube

I make lemon water, sit on the sofa in the white Ralphy dressing gown someone left on the back of the bedroom door, and do breathing exercises, Ram Dass’ voice comes through the speakers. Love your dark thoughts. On the breath-hold I get to the unthinking place, outside of time, outside of anything. When I told someone once how all I felt was gratitude, they said don’t take it for granted, feeling that way is a state of grace, the best of all luxuries.

I turn the boiler off and get in the shower.

One minute. Soap. Another minute. At the end I kneel, shivering on the mat, ice-cream headache, my whole body tenses and I feel something go through me. Hunched on the shower floor I think of Primo Levi in a Polish winter, I don’t know why, memory association thing. Something like gratitude, that I can get warm again. The ten minutes after a cold shower is spectacular, I flick the Rancilio Silva, it pours out a double espresso that would raise eyebrows in downtown Bologna.

No barkin from tha dog, no smog
And ma moma cooked the breakfast with no hog

I hit the streets.

Little I know bubbles up a kid-like raw excitement like cycling London at high speed listening to tunes. From Hackney to Kings Cross I know the lights and lines and movement of traffic like I was stumbling mid-dream to the loo, balls-pond, northchurch, ritchie, copenhagen, the street names tag-team one another, the blossoms sway and move in time with the motion of the wheels, the first time a child feels real freedom is on a bike they say. At an intersection it all gets too much and I shriek out, a pedestrian starts, gives me a look like I just ruined their morning.

I cross the smooth paving stones of the fountain square outside St Martins, remember my tutor Bobby and that time we chatted gas on the pavement the day I passed my entrance exam, he said let’s keep going, let’s walk to Brighton, now, me and you.

Ten minutes before opening I get to the library, the queue snakes a little through the redbrick courtyard. A girl ahead of me with headphones on in a black hoodie flowing-over with curls glances round. Want to time travel, get a bike. Want to fall in love, go to the library. I get in there, clock the bag checkers with a grin, take the shallow steps two by two, find my favourite spot, 1st floor desk.

Looking in my mirror, not a jacker in sight
And everything is alright

The girl with the curls is on the same desk, three down. She is a cross between Jessica Chastain and some girl off XVideos, with hints of my mother. She glances at me, I die a little. I wonder what strange forces play in the dance of attraction and think I will get no writing done. I can feel her presence, I change how I’m sitting, I steal a glance over the top of my laptop and the strip lighting bounces off her eyes and they are grey-green and full of my future. I hit the loo, splash my face with water.

Alfie sends through some theory of evolution. My days are permeated by these texts from him. He has two kids a wife on the way and runs a company and still finds the energy for this stuff. The most generous gift you give anyone is your time, said the postcard on the revolving stand in the crappy gift-shop one December.

My parents call.

They are on LOUDSPEAKER in the CAR yes COMING BACK FROM THE COUNTRY. I walk the wide-open spaces of the library, they shout over each other, I repeat myself, they interrupt, I tell them my book is getting good, Rochester asked Jane to marry him. HAS THE FIRE HAPPENED YET. What. I tell my dad to do one. HAS HE GONE BLIND. I tell my mother worse. I hang up.

I think about throwing my book in the recycle bin. And yet no plot-ruining or intensely annoying parenting, not even the aggressive library barrista with the tattoos who takes himself too seriously can get to me today, the day and I are having a moment, the girl with the curls exists, the world is full of possibility.

The gratitude I’d spoken of comes knocking. Perhaps it is a by-product of feeling out the darkness, that free from any sort of emotional baggage the world unravels into a temporary heaven, and you want to thank someone for something. I think about my parents, who they are, if I really know them, how long they’ll be around, I feel the urge to make them proud. You don’t understand how proud they are, someone said to me once.

It’s ironic, I had the brew, she had the chronic
The Lakers beat the Supersonics

The girl smiles at me, lingeringly. What in the world is going on. We get talking in the queue for the water fountain. She is French-Persian. She says she sees me here a lot. She wants me to write something for her. Let’s go to Paris, now, I say. She looks at me, bores through my irises into my soul and finds something there. Wait, I’ll get my things, she says.

Obviously no day is this good. These love affairs happen in my head most days at the library. A day like today is when you act on this shit bro. Ice Cube didn’t rap about a daydream, he rapped about a day. Do not love the idea of life more than you love life itself, said the poet. Still, to feel all this, to be in such a mood and sit in it, to feel the world pour down its magic on you, is a moment.

Even saw the lights of the Goodyear Blimp
And it read Ice Cube’s a pimp (yeah)

I write well, on and off til about 2pm.

When I don’t write well my life is a cul de sac and I don’t know what I’m doing with it. When I’m too pleased with what I’ve written I know I’ll read it tomorrow and delete most of it. Somewhere in the middle is the sweet spot. Finding words to make sentences to give form to wandering thoughts does something strange, it quietens the existential dread, fires up my adrenal glands, gets me high off my own supply.

I leave the hush of the library, cycle by the enormous plane of Bloomsbury Square my father’s favourite, hit the stoop outside Monmouth, tap a macchiato and a Vichy Catalan, the condensation coats the bottle. My bro comes and hangs. Tells me stories, married life, dad things, we crack up hard about the dumbest stuff, references so obscure they could be another language, a seam of the past only a sibling can tap.

Back in Hackney I pick Ab up and we hit the courts. He starts whispering fast, the way he does when I know he’s in trouble. The girl flicked glue at me, I told her to stop, she didn’t, I told her your mum can’t pay the bills, she went to the teacher and I got a blue form. I tell him some improvised fable about fairness and turning the other cheek, he isn’t listening. So what’s going on with your lovelife, I change the subject. He stops still, punches me on the arm, gives me a massive grin.

Back at home I crack a can in the tub.

A good day ey.

Some strange unknown force, opening its arms to let you in, a benevolent Spirit, allowing the good in everything to enter you. No regret for the past, no fear of the future. A champagne glass overflowing with the froth of the unknown. Today we run down the road high-fiving everything that moves.

Some basic maths tells me if this is how the world presents itself when I feel like this, it is the state of the world always. I only see it when my mood lets me, but it must be there all the time. The Spirit of the unformed future, dancing and laughing in the air, beckoning the better angels of my nature forth to meet it. I sink under the water and watch the bubbles rise up to the surface. I think of the girl with the curls. She stands for something. I try to work out what.

Today was like one of those fly dreams
Didn’t even see a berry flashing those high beams

In the evening I go to a concert.

I stopped buying 2 tickets a few months back. Across the street from the venue I stand at the bar. The solo-sharpener. A moment. ‘Eating Honey, thought Pooh, was a very good thing to do, but there was a moment just before you began to eat it which was better than when you were.’ I think how feeling superbly happy on your jax is a super power.

At the gig I stand at the back, watching through the sea of heads, slip out before the end. In a light drizzle, I cycle the streets homeward. I lean back and open wide to catch it on my tongue. Two billion years ago it rained non-stop for a million years. Millions of raindrops in the ocean. An ocean made of rain drops. A life made of days. A collection of days.

I get back, put tunes on, eat hummus. Ten years ago a good day would have been more spectacular. More illicit substances, probably some incarceration. More like Ice Cube in fact. But a good day now exists inside me, rather than exteriorly. Less highs, more like a contented removal of lows, a calm.

Don’t isolate yourself darling, says my mother. I’ll be fine, I think. I am getting where I need to be. If I do my bit, things will come towards me. Doing enough to keep the gnawing voice of conscience at bay. Do that, and days like these might come along. Today is the girl in the red dress. If I do my bit, now and again she will walk on by.

I lie in bed buzzing.

I recognise the many separate beings swimming inside me.

The old man by the fire in his slippers. The achiever telling me to aim higher. The zen master wanting to be still. The child wanting the womb. The hedonist wants to drinks five beers and text Taz. The loner wants to text her. The wise man wants for nothing, knows what I already have is all I really need. Me, right now, at the back end of today, wants to hit his knees and give thanks. To something or somebody.

To You
All-knowing all-seeing
I lift up my heart will you show me the way
On my knees make more of these
Gotta say it was a good day.

The Secrets of Not Doing Shit

My therapist stares at me.

I love the company of addicts. They’re the most interesting people I meet. I can smell an addict the second they walk into a room. I look at him sheepishly. And me? He looks back. No, I think you’ve got addictive qualities. You’re impulsive and compulsive. But you’re not a career addict. I can’t smell you. Having said that, he goes on, casting a wary eye on me as he so often does, you need to be mindful.

*

Each morning I wake up and put a little notch on the side of my fridge. It’s the no-fap revolution, I explain to my old man. His eyebrows raise a couple of mms and he reigns them in, creasing into laughter.

Another one of your experiments.

I continue, unfazed. It’s the ultimate in restraint. Zen-mastery over my libido. My record is 44 days, right now I’m on three, but I’m feeling good, this could be a long streak, it’s about laser-like control over your mind. I look over and my father is shuffling out of the room.

The experiment in question is one I wrestle with most days. The longer I go without nutting the happier I am. I don’t enjoy the aftermath at all, all it does is highlight every way my life is going badly. I enjoy the curtain coming down I suppose, but there is no applause. Just someone in the corner trying to start a slow-clap and getting nowhere.

Directly after copulation the devil’s laughter is heard.

Schopenhauer

I don’t have a problem with it, I have a problem with myself, after it. It makes me feel sordid. My life is better when I’m abstaining. When I’m on a long streak I feel like the man. Reddit threads declare if you get past six months you start giving off this energy, women can sense it, they just react.

My father is wary of these life-hacks. He has lived long enough to know there is more to life than trying to cunningly short-circuit it. I kind of agree. When someone tells me how listening to audiobooks on 4x the speed means they read up to five books a week, I also feel an urge to shuffle out of a room.

But these experiments I was telling my dad about, ones I have at various times over the last decade been up to my eyeballs in, are conspicuous by something else. Instead of making my life easier, they do the opposite. They make it harder.

*

I didn’t drink for eight months. It made me make friends with myself. Depriving myself of the respite of a drink, left me with no option but to sit there in a sober state and get to know me.

I didn’t eat for three days. It changed how I understood food, how much of it I needed to stay alive. 36 hours into a water-fast was one of the best drugs on the planet.

I didn’t look at the news for a month. If nukes were incoming my mother was bound to text, asides from that the world would keep spinning. I became more present in my surroundings, more calm, more at peace.

I didn’t take a warm shower for a year. Turning off my boiler in the dead of winter and stepping in the shower was a horror-show, but getting out was otherworldly. There was no mood a cold shower couldn’t snap me out of.

Reigning my left wrist in for 44 days was proof that succumbing to the whim of my impulses was a dead-end street. Ejaculate brought me no closer to enlightenment.

The Greeks called them Gods. Lust, greed, rage. Psychological forces that could take us over and submit us to their will. The Buddhists spoke of Hungry Ghosts that follow us around, tapping on our shoulder, demanding we feed them. I thought of my therapist’s line.

You’re not a career addict, you have addictive qualities.

You’re impulsive, compulsive.

A question leered at me. When did I ever tell myself no. When did I ever feel hunger and wait. When did I ever feel my attention wain and not sink into a quagmire of YouTube. When did I lie in bed alone feeling commotion in my loins and open a good book.

I was totally at the whim of my impulses. These prohibitions were a part of me going bro sort your shit out. What would life be like if you didn’t succumb immediately to your reptilian brain. The part that was always trying to get somewhere, get away from somewhere, the next drink, the next click, the next bit of input that would get me where I needed to be as the drooling beast of impulse growled at my door, what next, what next, what did I need to achieve comfort.

Cavemen spent their entire lives waiting. When they happened across some berries on an idle morning something lit up in inside them, a dopamine receptor. We evolved to release dopamine every time the reward-centre of our brain was activated. It served a function, a dangled carrot designed to keep us motivated to stay alive.

The problem with dopamine is that we have hacked the algorithm, now every little thing in modern culture is designed to trigger it, so at the merest touch of a button our dopamine receptors light up. My parents spent 3/4 of their lives without internet and my mother now walks around with an iPad strapped to her forehead while my father spends his waking hours salivating in anticipation of a new Netfleex Especial.

What hope do Gen Z have.

It feels like somewhere down the line we lost our ability to just sit. What we did most days for hundreds of thousands of years. That’s what being a person is, said Louis CK, to sit there doing nothing. That’s what the phones are taking away.

I lack the peace of simple things.
I am never wholly in place.
I find no peace or grace.

Wendell Berry

*

In 2018 I attended a rip-off TM (transcendental meditation) course in Islington run by a dodgy guy called Neil. I didn’t know it then, but it turned out to be priceless. By meditating most days I learnt something I’d never understood, the difference between my perception and reality, the idea that thoughts were just stories my brain was telling me. Like a cloud moving across the sun, I could watch a negative thought enter my head and depart. I didn’t have to grab hold of it, I could just witness it.

These impulses were the same. If I trained myself not to answer when they came knocking, hunger departed, attention refocused, lust ebbed away. By forcing my dopamine-addicted brain to go cold turkey I could recode the algorithms, in a world doing its best to distract me I could take back control. It compounded. Before I knew it, I was on the autobahn to full-monk and I was loving it.

One night I showed a mate the side of my fridge. Just have a wank you twat, he said. I mean he was right. Where did it end. The problem with control is that it can go too far, you can tip over into full Patrick Bateman. Nobody wants to live like that.

*

Luckily something happened last year.

After many months of lockdown the world began to exhale. A spirit of mischief took hold of the capital. People went crazy. Some of my most professional friends were doing their best Toni Montana impressions most weekends.

Having spent half the year sober as a judge, I followed suit. Who was I to miss out on all the fun. Slowly but surely the discipline I’d built up, the monk-like mastery, to sit in my negative thoughts without distraction, began to subside.

Towards the end of the year, bouncing off the walls having more fun than I knew what to do with, I ignored the signs that slowly and imperceptibly I was moving away from my centre, from the anchor that kept me tethered. The hungry ghosts came knocking, and I began to grow unhappy.

Sat in my meditation chair one morning something landed up top, and I went over to get it down in my book before it disappeared.

You have a wise emotional centre. That is what sobriety touches base with. You grow to know it, and you befriend it, in turn you befriend yourself. You understand what life, your life, is without this external stimulus. You grow to know how to survive with just you. Without the need for these things. But they creep back in, because that is our disposition, to mind-alter, and before you know it, because these things are so good, you start relying on them for kicks, to get you through things. Next drink. Next smash-up. And we forget this centering, the link with our wise self grows faint, inaudible. Only by austerity do we learn we have power over it, to not be slave to the next impulse, the next thought that careens through our head.

By that point it was all a bit late, and as winter descended I fell into a depression. But perhaps that was the learning. To show me what was bound to happen if I didn’t take the right care of myself.

*

And so…

Buddhist monks denied themselves the worldly pleasures on a path to enlightenment. My reason for these experiments, for getting my monk-on, was to stop myself from going nuts, in a world tailor-made to make my life as easy as possible, to remember that going without whatever I needed might not be such a bad idea.

When the hungry ghosts grew loud, these austerities rebooted me, like a rehab for my bad habits, an anchor tethering me to something deeper. In a world as relentless as ours, spiritual practice could be the life raft I didn’t know I needed. Reminding me that life might consist not so much in changing the outside world but in changing how I thought about it.

Writing this I had a lightbulb moment.

Put your money where your mouth is. A 3 day water-fast, get you in the mood. Gain peace of mind, clarity, stimulate all sorts of processes in your digestive system. I cleared my fridge out, got into a zen headspace. 28 hours in, at 2am my hunger did a drum solo of my stomach and crawling Nam style to the fridge I engulfed the only thing left in it, half a block of parmesan with five spoonfuls of heather honey.

*

It occurred to me once that life is an escalator, comprised of two gears. Active and passive. You either walk up, or you stand there and let it take you. Two modes of being. You move life forward, or you let life happen. A good life, I thought, must consist of being in the active gear, striding up two steps at a time.

What if there is a third gear. One that lets the escalator take you, not because you are at a low ebb and life has you by the balls, but out of choice. To pause, remove yourself from the maelstrom, take a deep breath in and stand there, surveying the world around you as it moves on by.

There is a definitely a fourth gear. Probably the most accurate.

The one where life kicks your ass.

But I suppose in the end, gets you where you need to be.

Making Rainbows Out of Something Painful

Hello again.

It’s been a while. What do you want from me. What will you take from me, this time. I know something I didn’t know before. You aren’t me. You are only happening to me. I will twiddle my thumbs and you will pass. This is what I’ve learnt. You are happening to me. But you aren’t me.

I am more than you.

*

I looked down at my cactus, once green and plump, now purple and shrivelled. Was this some sort of winter hibernation mechanism, I wondered. It looked more like it was dying. All the life sucked out of it. It looked like I felt, purple and dry and far from life.

I mustered the energy to hit the plant shop, wondering if they’d refund me, I didn’t do much wrong, I told myself. Holding the cactus up to show the girl at the counter, she looked at me aghast, like I was some sort of plant molester. What did you do to it? I stared back blankly. Your cactus is dying, she said flatly. I walked back from the shop under the cloud of my own mood, thinking how on top of my life being a total dead-end no-show, I was a murderer.

For close to two months I’ve felt like this. Unlike my cactus, I don’t quite have the energy to die. I just feel inanimate, unplugged from the wall. But I must be coming out of it, I haven’t been able to write for weeks, and now here I am, tapping something out, thinking maybe my only option is to write my way out of this.

How odd I can have all this inside me and to you it’s just words.

David Foster Wallace

My friend Alfie gave me a little picture book once, I Had A Black Dog it was called. About a man and his depression. It showed the depressed person being accompanied by the symbol of his mood, a black dog. It was very moving and accurate.

Inside he’d written ‘I’m always here brother’ and then below ‘… watching.’ I went to the window and looked out anxiously, I was taking no chances. My isolation was real. Isolation, I have come to know, is a prerequisite when you feel depressed. Seeing nobody is something you gradually slip into, that then becomes the portcullis to your fortress.

I flicked through the pages of the book and understood something. If I covered over the dog with my hand, all that was left was the man looking miserable. This is what it feels like, I thought. Just somebody alone, under the weight of a force pushing down on them, without reason, day after day after day.

The episodes I have suffered on and off from since I was 22, never had specific reasons for them. No-one had died, no bad breakup, just a feeling that would come out of leftfield and smother me for a couple of months, until like a cloud it would pass on. My therapist thought it was endogenous, that it came from within me, my mother disagreed, if you were busy and charged with responsibilities this wouldn’t happen, her eyes would burn across the table.

Both parties have a point.

Over time, my understanding of depression is more or less this. Highly sensitive people have pores that are always open, to information coming into them from all angles. Sensitive people, a poet once said, are constantly being beaten up by things insensitive people can’t see. It means the world is always informing you. Which when you are on top of things is unbelievably wonderful. But when your shield is down, it’s too much. And it doesn’t stop.

Perhaps, I wondered, depression is a way of shutting you down until you can recover. Like what the ground does in winter. A state of relief until the business of regrowth begins. Like what my cactus was doing. Oh no wait, my cactus was dying.

I felt a Funeral, in my Brain.

Emily Dickinson

I’d felt a mood shift in January, thought it was just a classic January blip. I stopped myself falling a number of times before I did. But it was persistent and it kept on at me, tap tap tapping at my temple. At some point I must’ve laid down my arms, and it hit me like a truck.

There is a downward slope to depression before you hit the bottom. Things begin to lose their meaning, their point. You almost relish the first stages, a tired middle finger up to the world. I stopped writing. Stopped exercising. When your things to do list comprises of ‘WRITE BOOK’, and you read the stuff you’ve written and your addled brain proclaims it’s garbage, things begin to snowball.

Time started to flow strangely. My short-term memory went. Dreams got freaky. Anxiety ramped up. I wanted to sleep, a lot. Waking hours were mean and unforgiving. Depression strips you of the ability to give or receive joy. I stopped making plans. What use would I be in company. I stopped listening to music. What right did I have to feel the joy music might elicit. This is how a depressed brain talks to you.

Instead, I listened to information. More aptly put, I blanketed myself in background noise.

Is there no way out of the mind?

Sylvia Plath

Years ago I would pass a man on Euston Rd who spent all day lying on a bench listening to a tiny transistor radio blaring out at full volume, talking to himself manically. My mother would leave the radio on all night sometimes to keep her company during bouts of insomnia. These worrying signs told me I had joined the party. I’d listen to the radio long into the night. I couldn’t be in my head. It was one of two things, raging or on mute, a cocktail of unfeeling and too much feeling. Certain of one thing, no good would ever come.

I got aggressively into football, tactics, fixture lists, I’d do intense calculations with the league table. I got into Rodeo. Learnt the names of the rankest bulls, the top bull-riders. Anything to deflect my brain from talking to me, reminding me how dead-end things were. Somewhere I had read the word enthusiasm meant ‘to be filled with God’s spirit’. In the silence between the radio’s pauses came the news God’s spirit had left the building.

From time to time I would self-medicate, get drunk and the rest, and for some hours it would bring me out of my stupor and I would message people and that involvement once again in the world was positive. But even if I felt back to normal for an afternoon, it wouldn’t last, the feelings weren’t coming from inside the mainframe.

Once in the throes of a depression, my experience has been I must wait for it to subside, however long that may be. Getting drunk or high was an artifice, the shift back to life was far deeper and more fundamental and would take much longer, and when it came there would be no going back. I was wary of false dawns, they seemed like news too good to be believed.

*

It doesn’t thrill me to write all this.

It brings it out from inside me. It makes it real. It is uncomfortable. When I was feeling rubbish I would gravitate towards accounts of other people feeling the same. A tennis player admitting to darkness and drug abuse, a 19th century Russian author hunting without a gun for fear of what he might do alone in the woods, Fleabag staring into the middle-distance saying she just wanted to cry all the time.

These people existing was a balm, their stories were company.

There was another thing. Meditation had taught me there is a place that exists beyond thought, outside the mind, where we are more than just the whirring of our brains. Thinking maps the contours of the world around us, by way of thoughts that appear like magic tricks inside our heads, but they really are just stories we tell ourselves. With daily practice I could access a place outside my ‘thinking brain’, a place of calm, of un-thought. Where I noticed the separation of perception and reality. Depression being an illness of thought, this was useful information.

Over the course of last year something else happened. A newly formed relationship with myself that was kind and accepting and didn’t, as past episodes had, make me the obvious culprit for my low mood, had brought me to a place of peace, and so even when I was bad, I was dimly aware, as never before, of a glittering place I might have access to once this thing ran out of steam.

When I could tap into the un-thinking control panel, it reminded me my brain was doing its best to trick me, it was sick, it fibbed, and lied, turned down the contrast and desaturated the colour on everything. But it was just thought. Thoughts that were happening to me.

They say the real work of depression exists outside of it. In doing the things that stop you from falling so hard. In learning how to contain low mood states before they become two month-long leering monsters.

My mother was right. If there is a place one absolutely must be at 8am every morning, contractually, to take your mind off the inevitable discomfort of being alive, perhaps one wouldn’t fall as far. A lifestyle of casual freelancing and mustering the courage to write a book did not provide this type of flotation device.

But knocking, it had come.

And there was another type of thinking too. One which asked: what are these states setting into motion? Depression is a lady dressed in black, wrote Jung. Invite her in, tell her to sit a while, ask her what she has to say. I wondered what this process might be stirring in me, whether this was a seasonal thing (in the literal manner of seasons), a sort of great breathing in, before a breathing out. It is not so far-fetched. Apocalypse is the Ancient Greek word for revelation.

Five years ago was the first time I wrote about depression, a cat out of the bag moment. It felt scary, but people responded to it in a way I had not anticipated. In it I stuck Matt Haig’s 10th ‘reason to stay alive’, a list he wrote to his suicidal younger self to stop him from jumping off a cliff.

You forgot number 11, said Jules. It’s not what the world has to give to you, it’s what you have to give to the world. He went on to list some things the world would not have, should Domingo choose to not be in it.

He was right. Although we might deny it, we are more involved in life than we think, more connected. When you remove yourself from things, in your isolation you tell yourself at least you’re doing no harm, that the world goes on the same. But it doesn’t. It is stripped of your energy. Your life force. The question you might ask, the joke you might send, the shoulder you offer, the ear you lend, the smile, the nod, the thank you, the tiny little sparks of energy you put out into the world that change it.

When I am down I am a non-existent family member, a shit friend, a ghostly neighbour, and whatever this process might be regenerating in me, the world loses access to me, the enormous humming organism loses a tiny microscopic thing. Which is not nothing. And that is sad. You could argue it is my obligation to try and stay undepressed. Not for my wellbeing, for all you fools, for the world around me. Worst of all, while one is there, alone, taking time out from life, depression is taking time out of you.

Money in tha bank, sneakers on ma feet.

Asaviour ft Jehst

One day, a week or so into March, staring out of the window a feeling something like a sadness flooded through me, and I got my jacket and went out, even though the world was scary and all eyes felt on me and the thought of bumping into my neighbour was terrifying. I surprised myself.

Walking back from the shops I realised I was done with it. I was sick of the sickness. A month ago that emotion would’ve floored me, but I was over that part. I was on the way back, even if faintly, even if I felt shit and my skin felt like tracing paper, I couldn’t go back to inanimateness. And this feeling I was feeling, at least I could feel that I felt it, which meant there must be someone living inside there.

The sunlight poured through the flat, exposing the dirt and dust I had not been able to see. When you’re ready for the light, you take stock of the work that has to be done. I heard a rustle, God’s spirit re-entering the building.

*

For four days straight spring has graced us with twelve degree sunshine. The magnolia is hitching up her skirt, the sky is a piercing blue the colour of a Davidoff Cool Water ad. I’m listening to tunes again, walking to the shops. I look at the mural under the overground bridge and smile. For me? Guys you shouldn’t have.

On a Saturday after rain we go shoot hoops, Ab gets 3 in a row and proclaims through the morning air THASS WHAT AM TALKIN BOUT. We cross town and catch Encanto at the Picturehouse. I well up three times and am close to breaking point once. I do my best to hold it in, thinking I’ll scare him. But it is back in the building, the life force is flooding in, I can feel it, I haven’t cried in months.

One morning I return to the plant shop, the poor cactus I murdered needs replacing. I walk back down Dalston Lane with a little bonsai pine. I like it a lot, makes me want to tend to it, channel my inner Mr Miyagi.

In a mood a few years back, I’d mustered the energy to go see a friend. Making our way down the hill I said to him, I suppose even people who have their lives most together think their shit is a mess. Mate, he said, seriously, nobody thinks you have your life together. We cracked up hard, in the depths of that pain something could still get in. Guy said something else I still remember. It’s okay to feel sad. It’s just dumb to feel sad about feeling sad.

Being the depression guy doesn’t sit very well with me, I want to be more than that. Some of history’s coolest cats are lifelong depressives, and we know about them because they did great things, in spite of their malaise. In the end I decided to write this because it would’ve helped me to read it. And also I’ve discovered, writing has this strange way of saving me. It reminds me to not forget what I have learned, to hold onto it, to keep it safe.

You are happening to me. You are not me.

I am more than you.

Thanks fam. I needed that.

Bean Burrito

Hanging out with your mate.

Casually trying to cycle across North America.

Casually trying to take down a bean burrito.

Hanging out.

Bishop Brent

What is dying?

A ship sails and I stand waiting till she fades on the horizon and someone at my side says ‘she is gone.’ Gone where? Gone from my sight, that is all; she is just as large as when I saw her. The diminished size, and total loss of sight is in me, not in her, and just at the moment when someone at my side says ‘she is gone’ there are others who are watching her coming, and other voices take up a glad shout, ‘There she comes!’

And that is dying.

Bishop Brent 1862-1929 Man of God

This Is How You Lose Her

It was one of the old Greek guys.

Back in the day, he said, we’d been cut in two, and our lot was to spend the rest of our lives in search of our other halves, the ones needed to make us whole again. That was it. As I lay there in the foetal position on the cold floor of my flat in a pool of tears, I felt cut down the middle. I hadn’t felt that kind of emotional pain in years. I thought I was too old for this shit.

Ever since Ross and Rachel popularised the break and it hit the mainstream, people have needed space to ‘work on their shit’.

I asked my mother what they used to do back in her day and she was like well they didn’t exist in quite the same way really. More a grave conversation followed by much lingering by the phone or the post box. So not that different, I proclaimed. I should think we were better at waiting, she said.

You know when you’ve stayed at home to receive a package of great importance and you’re waiting for the door bell to go so you can get on with your day and a message bleeps on your phone informing you that Guan tried but you weren’t home and Sorry we missed you! And you’re like Guan I’m here you tool, literally the only reason I’m here is to wait for you. All you have to do is ring the doorbell.

It felt like that.

Just me, sat there in limbo, waiting for this person, and the rational part of my brain reminding me that no matter how long I waited, nobody was going to come.

*

It wasn’t my idea. I went along with it because I loved her. And I was probably terrified of being alone. Nodded my head in earnest understanding of how space could be a sharpener, a great motivator, how we’d come back together stronger.

Lying there with a damp cheek stuck to the floorboard, I thought this is a first. I’d done the breaking but never the being broken and not that it was anything to be proud of but at the very least it came with agency. I typed something scathing meant to wound her and before I could hit send the phone slipped from my salty fingers.

Walking in the park with a friend one morning, it was pointed out in some ways a break could be harder than a break-up. With a door slammed in my face there was no option but to shuffle off. But a door half-open was confusing because the other side of it was hope, and yet through it the cold hot doubt of unknowing whipped me in the face like a harsh November wind.

One morning I got her dress out of the drawer under the bed and cried into it. I looked down at the little patch of damp and hoped the salt would linger there, so if one day she came back and retrieved it, to put it on rather than fold it into a box to take away, she would see the little salty residue and sense my tears and realise what she’d done.

It took me two weeks and four days not to cry. Strange rasping cries, tantrum-like, the sobs of someone who’d given up on language. But tears brought calm, like my brain was pouring water from my tear ducts to heal me, less a symbol of my sadness than a balm for it.

Then one day they stopped. I tried and nothing. I tried harder and they came, but reticently. And I had a thought. If I wasn’t crying, was this some sign of progress? I didn’t want this at all. I wanted to be half-broken and spluttering, because at least that meant being close to her.

I’d wake in the night half asleep to go for a pee and it would flood back and I would stand there alone in the dark, steadying myself with a forearm against the wall, disbelieving. But the ache got lighter. Some days I’d kick through leaves and feel my eyes stinging and think wow I’m not getting over this at all, and realise it was just my new nivea cool kick hydro-intense arctic freeze moisturiser.

One night I scanned her recently played on Spotify.

Were they songs of heartbreak or defiance, songs of missing a lost-love or moving on. I looked for Single Ladies and saw no sign of it. As I sat there in the dark trying to decipher what Idioteque by Radiohead had to say about the current state of our relationship I decided this was one of the worst ideas I’d ever had and resolved not to do it again.

Some days I’d just wait by my phone and stare at it, and a voice in me would be like bro… she’s not going to text. Think of something else. I stopped drinking. I was no match for the floodwaters of even a slight hangover. I’d get nailed on non-alcoholic beer and pass out and dawn would rouse me, clear of head and peace of mind.

Just off C_____ street, the road that swoops down through Barnsbury towards Kings Cross, is M_____ street, the one that bears her name. In the past every time I cycled to the library I would blow the sign a kiss or whoop in its direction, or if we were mid-fight I might scowl. But I looked the other way now, took a different route. Now I think of it this whole time was enveloped in a veil, a dreamlike veil, which made none of it feel real at all. The only thing that punctured it was an inkling of a recurring thought that came back again and again.

This is how you lose her.

When you’ve moped yourself to sleep, talked yourself out, bored your friends into metronomic muted nodding, paid your Colombian cleaner overtime because she gives you better advice than your therapist, when you’ve blasted Take A Look At Me Now so many times a neighbour slides a note quietly under your door, when your journal is an endless jumble of smudged repetition, there comes a moment when rather than dwelling on the fact that you are single, you have to get on with the business of being it.

And unannounced, it sneaked up on me. The same thought that weeks before had been so terrible now, although faintly, began to whisper its allure. The I made my family disappear Home Alone raised eyebrow moment.

It’s only me now.

Pause.

It’s only me now.

It came flooding back.

The intense selfishness. The sweet lack of compromise. All those years I’d been single and jolly enough and too scared to give myself to anyone. When I had no need to look for the other half of myself, because who needed anyone else to be happy, certainly not me, so fond of the lie that I was whole and complete as I was.

I would relearn to be alone. I’d been an expert once, all I had to do was retrace my steps. I would remember the hopeful mornings. The expectant nights out. I would run nothing by anybody, cycle as fast as I wanted without watching to see who was keeping up, I would make coffees for one, revel in film nights for one. And the 3am plods to the loo, pillows suffocated with cuddles, swallowed whole by Sundays of clawing loneliness. Slowly the wound that ran down one side of me would begin to scar.

Still I missed having the person you could tell the stuff to. I’d learnt to file a fingernail, switched up my Y-fronts, put onions in the ragù. No one else cared about this stuff. And the idle intimacies. The nicknames and in-jokes and interlinking fingers. The sounds of her sleeping. One day I went to the barber just so someone would touch my head. I picked up a conker from the pavement and whispered something into it and put it on a shelf.

But I was working on my shit.

That part was true. The weeks in the calendar I’d looked at with the fear of God in my heart back when each quarter hour crawled past were gathering pace. What did it mean about the depth of my feeling a month before if I didn’t feel it now. What did it mean for us, if she no longer had the power to glue my salty cheek to the floor for an afternoon. I felt far stronger but also further away from her. Something scared me. My severed other half, the one that had been cut from me, what if it didn’t fit anymore.

Again unannounced, morning came one day and I felt a shifting of the search coordinates. All those years of being single, selling myself the lie of being whole and complete as I was, I wasn’t all the way wrong. The dawn brought a realisation, that my search to find my other half was off the mark, because I’d been looking in the wrong place.

The last few days I’d felt a peculiar presence behind my left shoulder, like a warmth which became more and more felt with each day. That morning sat on the sofa in my white towelling dressing gown feeling the light pour through the big school windows caking the long wall and glinting off the frames, I was like shit.

What if my other half wasn’t her.

What if this other half, the one I’d been searching for all this time, this elusive other half I’d lead myself to believe was someone else, what if this other half was not actually another person at all, what if it was something along the lines of…

me.

What if all this time my other half was the one I’d jettisoned a forgotten lifetime ago, the half of me I’d never known, the me I’d struggled in vain my whole life to love. I didn’t even know I was in half, I always figured the cruel master of the horrid voices was the whole of me. Sitting there with my head rocked back, I wondered if the fear of rejection, the mistrust of being adored, the not being enough, it was all the cry of pain of someone who’d been torn in two, crying out for the half of them they didn’t know they were without. Of course I couldn’t find me, I didn’t even know there was a search on.

And this process I was living, perhaps the defining growth-spurt of my adult life, was me joining up with the me I could be brave enough to love. Coming into one another’s view, this new half stared back at me. It took you a while, I said to me. Here I am. Here you are. I’m sorry you were so sad for so long.

So what was this then.

Was this being whole.

What did this mean for her. Where did she sit in all this. Like so many things that demystified themselves over the course of that strange October it became clear that whatever happened between me and her didn’t matter so much. This Rocky fight-training montage I was in the midst of was not a means to get her back. Rather, it was getting me to my finest self, preparing me for any outcome, and tattered heart to one side I was the best I’d been in years. I got it now, her half was not the half I needed to be whole.

Often the wash of sadness would return, I’d lean on the kitchen island and shudder and spy my face in the mirror cracked and wet. Her chocolate on the newsagent shelf, the pavement where we danced one Christmas after cocktails, that dumb fucking song she always lost her shit to. I imagine it was because I was doing well, and the part of me that was bereft was fed up with being ignored and was clawing its way back to the surface. But it was a gift too. A reminder of how deep she was inside me and the sadness was a little whisper in my ear.

Her photos were everywhere, in frames around the flat, in journals, on my noticeboard. Nothing could be more sad than removing them, putting them in boxes, replacing them with something new, wiping the walls of her memory, and I was sure that nothing so sad could be allowed in life, and wondered if I should take them down.

The days drew on.

The way I thought of her now was a little different. Back on the floor of my flat all those weeks ago I couldn’t imagine a world with her not in it, and the pain of separation did feel like something being torn from me. But pain had become something else and I felt stronger and more upright. I loved her, and that meant being in love with her path I suppose. I was no kidnapper. It was quite simple, if she wanted to come back she would and if she didn’t what could I do. Looking down at the leaf wet and starfished against the cobble, I felt my heart hold its middle finger vehemently up to my head.

Love + love = pain.

The mathematics of love spew out some strange answers. I suppose lovers can get so enmeshed in each other they might not see how it is strangling them, and flying instead towards love like some holy grail they attach themselves to another like a grotesque Frankenstein creature without watching to see if the stitches take.

Would I take this love I’d made and pour it into something new. Or take the other road, of those so burnt by love they turn their backs on it, losing sight of all intimacies out of a hardened heart, walking in limbo with steps that echo like old memories, preferring to die than to suffer but never dying.

Who knows.

Weird that something so painful is revealing itself, annoyingly, to be one of the best things that ever happened to me. Perhaps her and me figured out we were missing a part of ourselves and thought we’d take time out to relocate it. Perhaps along some distant day into the future, we’ll come back together as whole complete beings and fall into a tentacled embrace, and perhaps we won’t. But one thing is for sure, I feel less alone I think.

November, 2020

The Best Is Yet to Come

On the ferry on the way back across the channel in early October, five hours into the crossing, three to go, four sizeable snacks down, having slept, read, and stared out across the sea until it blurred into a wash of water-colour grey, I bought a ticket to the on-ferry cinema and sat in front of A Quiet Place Part II, a film in which psychopathic aliens maraud around taking out the human population one by one.

I was the only one in there.

As must befit most people watching A Quiet Place Part II, my mind began to wander. Back to the week that was, where I’d put my bike on a plane to Toulouse, cycled from south-west France up to the Bréton coast over 8 days, and spent a tearful evening staring out to sea.

As the heroine tiptoed around trying to avert the attention of the ‘Death Angels’ who, it turns out, were blind, but hunted sound, hence the name, A Quiet Place, I was on my bike, cycling along unnamed lanes, past hedgerows whose leaves were beginning to turn, into the outskirts of a village, an aggregate of the countless villages I passed through, and holding these images in mind I tried to work out what I had done, what its worth was.

Just to do it, for now, seemed to be the point.

Go to the Czech Republic, says Alfie, birds are insane. France is my shit bro. France would be phat if it didn’t have so many French people in it. He isn’t wrong. They are no Italians. But among the slippery Gascons and the moody Ligériens the people of the countryside, of the Dordogne and Anjou and Vienne, moulded by their soil and fed by their earth, are more often than not up for a chat when some smelly-looking dude arrives out of breath and red in the cheek, carrying a house on a bicycle.

Tout-seul? Mais vous êtes courageux!

They all concur.

I don’t feel brave. Up in the Andes or lost in the Wyoming desert, a gnawing terror in me might masquerade as bravery, but you can have no delusions of survival when you’re 250m away from a croissant beurre at all times. A pigeon-chested self-reliance is what I feel, a self-sufficiency, an adrenaline that comes with not knowing where the hell the next fifteen minutes is going to deposit me. Most of all I feel free, tied to nothing.

I pedal on.

The country moves gradually from in front of me, past my periphery and into my rear view, breezily or painfully slowly, through pouring rain and thin October sun, through muted mornings and the orange bonfire of late afternoon, a conveyor belt of information, fields and farmyards and the smell of manure, empty village squares, pine forests and vineyards, leering factories, markets, old stone bridges over rivers, train lines, iron crosses in the middle of fields, dogs hurling themselves at fences at me, stooped old men turning with their whole bodies to watch as I pass. Outside, sucking all that good oxygen in, ten eleven twelve hours a day, alive.

High up on a hill at Hautefort I see the château Louis XIII built for his mistress. I cycle through Montignac where the 17,000yr old paintings at Lascaux of the aurochs and bison are. The Romanesque abbeys at Moissac, and at Clauné overlooking the Loire, the beating of small wings echo across the vaulted ceiling. I light two candles for loved ones and pray. I see old shuttered-up houses floating on lawns of purple flowers. On the old converted train line I pass by crumbling station platforms and imagine the men and women with their trunks sitting on some idle afternoon in wait.

I fly down descents whooping like a fool, tiptoe through enormous empty churches, small-talk with French men the age of old oaks outside boulangeries, sit on stoops dicing up saussicon with my fold-up knife like I’m Rambo, two glasses of wine down at dinner I stare goggle-eyed into space, glowing, scrawling in my notebook the account of the day passed.

Some days are hard, cold and wet and I feel old, but campsite-showered, endorphin-dazed, feet up, munching my way methodically through the below, my worries take their leave and carry off and up pulled by the wind.

Baguette a l’ancienne
Saucisson au vin rouge
Morbier
Avocado (deux)
Mackeraux à la méxicaine
Taboulé à l’orientale
Coca Cola (ice cold can of)
Yaourt au noix de coco
Pear (mushed in pannier, more like a smoothie)
Suchard le rocher lait praline

In my tent the nights are long and I sleep 4 hours at most and freeze my arse off just before dawn, but I am happiest of all in there. So close to the ground, feeling the world sigh and stretch under me. The raw pleasure in the simplicity.

At Saint-Savin in Vienne, I meet Alice and Kaas from Amsterdam, a middle-aged couple on a campervan European tour. Earlier I’d seen them walking round the village, we get talking. Kaas is shaking his head. I think I know what you’re about to say. How sad it is? He nods. It is… how do you say… bankrupt? All around France we see the same, he continues. Beautiful villages, all empty, the life has moved on, there are no people anymore.

As the sun was falling I’d walked the same empty lanes lined by fine facades, shuttered up, shop windows with no stock, the long square next to the abbey, a closed hotel, the planes dropping their leaves. Why it had taken me so long to notice. There wasn’t a soul anywhere. I tried to imagine the village in its pomp, the voices, the clamouring, disputes and gossip. And now only the rustle of the wind pushing the leaves through the square, the distant figure of an old lady with a plastic bag rounding a corner, out of sight.

Just south of Fougères in Normandy, I fly downhill past a little hamlet and glance two figures, old men, standing outside a house, watching the road. I whirr past them in a blur, I am moving, in an instant they are gone. 40 yards down the road, without looking back, I raise my hand and wave. Turning my head to look, I see them both, arms aloft, following my path as I disappear round a bend.

In an old abandoned farmhouse off the side of the road, I wandered through its empty rooms hearing my bike shoes clank against the old stone floor, and I thought of something. This is the story of us, we move in, we stay a while, we leave. If you zoom out far enough all of time is a tide moving in and out, in and out. Forest becoming sea, mountain to desert, aeon.

So I move through a country leaving little pieces of me strewn here and there. A tiny mark, a smile, a wave, I see it scatter. On we move, onto the next, but something minuscule has been altered. On and on, into the unformed future. An audio recording of a distant morning, voices lost in time, an old photo of lives since past, the beating of a butterfly’s wing.

One day on the road I feel a presence behind me.

T’es chargé comme un mule! comes a voice.

This is Ginot from La Réunion. 53 yrs old, twice-divorced, ‘on a tous besoin de la liberté’ he laughs. We cycle side by side for 15km. Nine days alone, sans internet?! he shouts through the wind. Ca me fait du bien! When I get tired I stop, s’il pleut un hôtel, sinon un camping, I figure something out, I like not knowing! We reach the top of a hill, around us stretch the windswept fields of the Loire, a cold afternoon light. Tu m’as donné des idées! he says. I smile and we spud. He holds my shoulder and looks at me. N’oublies pas, les meilleurs jours de ta vie sont encore à venir. The wind picks up, I shake my head. J’ai pas compris! He moves off a little, and turns.

Remember…

your best days are yet to come.

When I went away, I wrote in my journal the thing I wanted most from my journey was gratitude. For the myriad things in my life, for the upcoming adventure, the hit of freedom only the bike can give, before autumn and the battening down of hatches.

I got a big whiff of gratitude. But as the week went on, out on the road day after day, another feeling came over me. That nobody would ever come close to finding out what I had seen, smelt, heard, or most of all felt, at that particular time of year, as the sun shallow on the Meridian threw its light on those winding innumerable roads. I felt like the guardian of a secret nobody cared to discover. Which was exciting, but also made my insides ache from some sadness. But sadness was somehow not the right response. Was it the need to share it with somebody, I wondered. Or the need to just understand it. If I could unlock its kernel, its meaning, it wouldn’t be sad, it would be a treasure of my own making, locked in the vault of memory, mine to keep.

On the last night, looking out to sea in the dark by the grey stone of Saint-Malo, I cry in fits, same thing that’s been happening for months. Not sad, just overwhelmed by it all. There will come a time when a church will be a church, an avenue of oaks dripping wet just that, the waves washing against the beach of Brittany as they have since time immemorial, a time when these things don’t bubble this raw emotion up in me and make me sob like someone died. When that happens I think I will have lost something.

Be more like a machine and less like a flower, she said to me once.

More like a machine. Less like a flower.

Back in Hackney, in the Boots queue, holding a packet of electric toothbrush heads, my mask feels the force of a sigh. After all that, here we are again. 9 days I was away. The first two in London aren’t good. It makes sense I suppose, I’m not back at all. My physical self might be, shuffling along in this queue for the pharmacist, but I am far away, out on a country lane lined by hedgerows with their turning leaves, in the middle of a nameless field.

This Is The Story of A Holiday

Walking through Stanstead at 5.27am one morning, bleary-eyed and dehydrated, I surveyed the carnage around me. Men bent-double over pints of lager, a girl with sad eyes and bad makeup offering samples of skin cream to nobody, a four year old with hair the colour of maple leaves lost in the drone of wheelie suitcases clutching the straps of her pink backpack, so overwhelmed by the amount of human energy on show I wanted to pick her up and run. Why do people go on holiday I thought.

What are they escaping from.

It isn’t until about two days into my holiday, a few years later, sitting on soft cushions heated by the sun, experiencing DFS-advert comfort as the soup of hot air from the Sirocco pushes salt and the barking of dogs and some sentences in dialect towards me, and I stare out at the expanse of water and mull over a beer, an extremely cold beer, a Messina Cristalli Di Sale, and imagine the taste of the first sip fizzing and cooling my mouth, it isn’t until then that it dawns on me something I don’t think about very much, that a holiday can be a monumental experience, because this is fantastic.

I walk languidly from the terrace into the dark cool of the kitchen and take a bottle from the fridge, I crack it and hit it, it does more than my imagination had prepared me for. If someone handed me a pale ale from some microbrewery in Clapton right now I’d throw it at their forehead and insult their career trajectory. This is the beer for me. I am an islander now. One of the Filicudari.

The mountain in the middle of the sea they call it. A mass of volcanic rock rising out of the Tyrrhenian to the north east of Sicily, Filicudi is one of the 7 Isole Eolie ruled over in myth by Aeolus the divine keeper of the winds, who Homer told, helped Odysseus on his way by granting him a favourable gust. An island far from war, far from time, watched over by the sun, wrote Roland Zoss in 1973. The same sun watches over me. I look out over the water from my heated cushion and raise the bottle and toast.

It heats up quickly and I drink it fast, record-trouncing temperatures are igniting hillsides across the Mediterranean, Syracuse records 48 degrees on Wednesday, the Italians are too refined for stubby holders. Thousands emigrated to Australia from these islands between the wars, one of them could’ve brought a stubby holder back by now. The drink of the Filicudari is Malvasia, a sweet straw wine grown on the vines of Lipari.

Two days before I spent the morning in bed, overwhelmed by my new environment. Was it too long in lockdown, was it my old age, was I hormonal, bed seemed safer, I wasn’t ready for this strange world outside the window. I woke at eight but stayed put til eleven, hiding under sheets, until a grudging acceptance came that spending a week there would be a bad use of my time. I ventured out. Cool dark high-ceilinged rooms, sheathes of light, through a doorway a slender ankle.

Raymond is a man of class and continental allure. The incarnation of a sea breeze, inhabiter of past lives, he keeps a fine collection of linen shirts and an Amex open to new experience. On the phone across the ocean to plumbers, electricians, plasterers, stone-cutters, painters, engineers and foremen he speaks of mastic, light-switches, second coats, architraves, shower handles, Sky installation, and dust. His mother calls and he reassures her that move-in day is imminent. Mate if I did even one of those things in a calendar year for my parents they’d never recover. It’s a cultural thing bro, he explains, children look after their parents in India, it’s expected.

One of the nice things about being with people our age is studying how they’ve set up their lives, taking the things you admire and using them for inspiration. Most of all I dig Raymond’s adventure. Every year he spends months in different continents making new friends of all ages and creeds. I think how much new experience this gives him, how good to break habit and repetition and I am envious. I feel boring, it makes me want to be braver, to go and see new things. This adventure had led him, by word of mouth, to rent a villa on Filicudi for a month, most islanders we meet gawp and exclaim wat aryu doin eyur in Filicudi!

I feel like a celebrity groupie.

We go and swim and the big boulders of the Tyrrhenian are smooth and slick and comforting, the water is warm and the salt is tasty and I starfish on the surface and try to zoom out and imagine this strange spot in the endless ocean and I think wow what the hell where am I. And then a strong understanding of how much my brain needed reminding, of things outside London and lockdown and the repetition of days and unlearning love, and this reality I had begun to unquestion, now floating in the sea, warm and content, was jogging my mind from, and I didn’t know how much I needed it til then.

We lunch at Gramd Hotel Sirena, spadina, tono, patate al forno, caponata, the sea salt coats my skin, panna cotta, espresso, Raymond points out the waitress. There’s something about her, he says. I look and there is. Back up to the villa, one by one we take on the steep and endless steps that climb the hill and drench us in sweat. The heat of the afternoon demands focus on nothing, I read the Neapolitan novels, a present from my cousin Clara, watch out, she says, they’re like crack, once you start you won’t stop.

At night we walk down to the port. Esta que arde like papa always says. The place is full of human energy, young and beautiful Italians, loud, gesticulating, music and cries, smoke, the sound of beer bottles against stone, queues leading to a stall selling fritti, the fading light and out to sea the boats that Raymond says have tripled in number wait. I feel nervous and awkward. I find any communication hard and am sensitive to even the mildest input. It was like this when I was small, I remember, an urgency to run from uncomfortable situations, to be alone. I don’t know why I feel it now again.

Raymond is an absolute babe magnet.

Some girl beelines towards him on the port and her friend drags her back by the hair. The guy who rents him a boat wants to take him to dinner. The mother and daughter who run the only shop in town giggle as he picks cheeses from the counter. It comes naturally to me man… he shrugs smilingly. A lady stops him in the street. She asks in shock… ma sei tu Rajan? A day later we are on her boat. Her husband Rino captains it with a tired, kind smile and two Italian women lie on the white seats, we swim off the rocks, eat lentils and drink wine, our host persuades Raymond to buy a house on the hill, it’s for sale, she will take him round it tomorrow.

The very top of the island is Fossa delle Felci, says Patricia. It is a beautiful walk. Back on the terrace I inspect my back, it is the colour of a Puglian tomato. Gisella, an islander, is doing her weekly clean. Roh-ger? She says. Rah-jan. I teach her the annunciation. An Indian name, I explain. Si Indio. Sempre con el telefonino. I ask her the name of the little purple flowers, to which she replies Bougainvillea. Bellisima ma fragile, she says looking down a little sadly at the petals on the terrace floor. A little bit of wind and they all fall. I turn and show her my back. Bougainvillea I say. She laughs.

In 1971 the islanders gathered at the port carrying with them the statue of their patron saint San Bartolo, brought down the hill from the church, to set sail for neighbouring Lipari in protest at the government’s decision to exile 18 reputed Mafiosi to the island under house arrest. 270 of them, pretty much the entire population, left. Leading the Mafiosi to complain, we’d rather be in prison, at least there we’d have company.

We go back to the restaurant the next day. Alberto the manager sits at one of the tables doing numbers on a pad. He looks up at Raymond, and starts yelling. Look at this man! A face like that and never a reservation! The waitress smiles at me for the first time and I fist-pump madly under the table. The happiest I’ve been all year.

That afternoon on a bookshelf I find a map of the island’s trails. The peculiar sensitivity I’m feeling is eager for my own company, Raymond is busy with builders so I take the map and walk up into the hills. All around me I see rocks, from the shore up to the sky, terraced walls, piled up as far as the eye can see. I read in a book they are called Lenza. Torn from the mountainside, cleared of stones and levelled they were little gardens, in their thousands, where the islanders grew barley, vegetables, and fruit in the abundances the volcanic earth provided for them.

That evening we head into town spruced up and smoothed out, into the thick din of revelry, on the sloping flagstones the kids play out an unending game of football, running between the revellers spilling their drinks, politely apologising, running on. We climb the four steps to the restaurant importantly. Completo, Alberto grimaces. I smile at the waitress and she looks through me without a flicker of recognition. It took men and women hundreds of years to build the Lenza and I can’t get her attention for longer than one lunchtime, I watch her glide around the tables, bow-legged and insouciant. All of a sudden from within the kitchen the cook starts shouting. He is Gisella’s husband! Raymond will come to dinner! He will cook him whatever he desires!

Thus the week lilts onward in the manner of the boats moving around their anchor, we fall from the clutches of one day into another. We are on holiday. We swim in the sea, sleep late, drink beer with no hangover, we eat fish, read, sit in the shade, cool off in the shower. Some mornings before the sun gets too fierce I run down to the port, and glimpse the island stirring. The cacti and the cocoa-coloured earth and the wine-coloured sea.

One afternoon I walk to the cemetery. Either side of an avenue of firs the tombs bear the names of Filicudari families. Zanga, Zagami, Rando, Paina. Qui sono i resti del forte onesto e laborioso Gaetano Taranto. I look back past the gate to the sea and hear the wind rise, it moves through the trees below and comes up past the gate and a branch sways and my face just cracks.

All I have been feeling lately, this overflow of senses, something like the pain of everything and our struggling on in spite of it, over and over again, and in this sacred place among generations of islanders resting here warmed by their sun and cooled by their sea, some glimpse of the endless repetition of things, the beauty despite the sorrow, a sign of what to hold onto, to be grateful for the miracle, to be involved in the grandeur. I think I have never felt so open, like I am touching the edges of something bigger and it will not always be like this so I must not let it disappear.

That night we eat chocolate mushrooms and listen to tunes in the dark and dance and chat breeze and end up lying on our backs on the terrace looking up at the stars, taking turns with the music. We see a dozen shooting stars at least. They leave a trail of sparks and stardust behind them. UFOs bro. Raymond laughs, tells me to shut up. Laugh all you want, one day they’ll be in charge. Probably already are. The stars are innumerable, we stare up and gawp, what a sky, what an evening, the mosquitos cut it short.

The next morning is my last and I rouse myself at six, fail in my efforts to get a slumbering Indian out of bed and pick my way up the hillside through the morning light. Up and up, along the path built from sacks of earth leftover from the building of the pier, levelled because the men carrying the statue of San Bartolo from the church would trip on uneven steps. I get above the clouds.

Over the years the children would race each other up here until the crack of a rock against one of the boulders at the summit would echo across the hillside and denote a victor. How strange and deep a week can be, even one where I don’t feel that good, I breathe in the morning, leave a little stone on top of the pile, blow a kiss to the sea and pray.

Down in the port for a last ice-cold Messina, I thank Raymond for having me, for bringing me to this strange place with his invention and his nose for new experience. I look over at the restaurant and see her. What if told her I’m leaving tomorrow, but if she goes for a drink with me I’ll stay. Pretty good opening line, no? Raymond smiles. I can’t quite work out what his smile means. A few days later, back in London I realise what it meant. Fine, said the smile, you’re never going to do it are you.

On Sunday walks down through Rotherhithe my mate Matt’s voice would boom out along the river path. It’s not a dress rehearsal! It was one of his favourites. This is it. Real life. We have to take our chances, make our luck. La oportunidad la pintan calva. Imagine, wrote Viktor Frankl, that you have lived already what you are about to do, and are aware you have done it wrong, but have a chance to go back and put it right. This, he said, is how one should live the present.

Go out into the world.

Come towards Me, said the voice.

What a way to live, I think. Still, I don’t ask her. Fear of being shot down I suppose. Not enough swagger in me. At the end of the aisle, out past the pews, the sea gets on with her business.

On the way back on the ferry I look through the cloudy glass at the Thyrennian, calm and with the sun on it, like silk. How long life is, I think, feeling heavy, and I must live every second of it. But it is full of an unformed magic, and all the feeling it contains I want to seek it out and write it down where I can, bottle it. The translucent skin, it callouses over, my brother tells me, sitting on the floor of his new flat. Give it some form, I think, not its perfect form, a refraction of a moment. So you can hold onto something that is always trying to leave, before it does its thing and disappears into the past.

Go Hard or Goatee

In the manner of the rain that has, of late, lashed unceasingly against the dank grey pavements of the city, navigating the puddles and potholes of my days I found a singular repetitive thought drumming against the roof of my brain. What the hell to do with my hairstyle.

I wasn’t drowning in options.

Having drawn the follicular short-straw and watched my forehead increase alarmingly in size over the last few years, it was a toss up between the backward combover flaunted by the Turkish guy in my Local 7 Eleven…

and Uncle Fester.

I tended towards the latter, simply because it was easier and cleaner and I’m a sucker for control and at times when I let it all hang out I’d catch my reflection and see patches where my hair wouldn’t grow and feel old and vagrant.

But the Fester option also came with problems, most notably the ‘head doubling as flashlight’ syndrome. The amount of light bouncing off the top of my melon was a source of contention. Useful for directing pals to my whereabouts on heaving dancefloors, but I was taking driving lessons, what if my dome was deemed hazardous to oncoming traffic by the DVLA.

Could I tan the shine out of me.

Seems not.

I mulled over the Coolio vibe.

Out of nowhere one sticky evening of early summer, scanning Netflix for some mindless flatscreen daydream to wallow in for a couple of hours, an answer arrived.

The message came loud and clear. I was focusing my energies in the wrong hemisphere. I went to the bathroom, steadied myself and summoned a deep intake of breath. With a deft swivel of the Braun series 9 titanium-coated beard-sculptor, a door to a new room in my soul creaked open. I walked tentatively through.

I had entered an unchartered realm.


The realm of the goatee.

I dusted off the loose stubble, splashed my face with water, towelled myself down, and focussing in once more I surveyed my reflection in the mirror. Staring back at me was someone I had never met before. I took some more photos.

Turns out I wasn’t the only one who was happy about it.

But something alarmed me. I’d had my fair share of questionable hairstyles over the years, but this was different. Never before had I, in under a minute of fairly unconcentrated coiffuring, revolutionised the way I looked at myself, how I perceived my own identity. There was something about the goatee that changed the interior of my being, deep down inside me. That took my 37 year old script, ripped it to shreds and flipped it on its head. That brought out a long forgotten darkness from my soul, something I knew I wasn’t going to be able to come back from. Lurking within its angles and symmetry, was something absolutely terrifying.

What was it exactly. It’s not like I was the first to test-drive this particular style. There was Brent.

But then there were some cool cats too. Brad, Leonardo, Pacino. I was in esteemed company. These guys were the epitome of class and continental allure.

In fact, these guys begged an all important question. If you don’t have a goatee, who the hell even are you. What had taken me so long?



And still my reflection terrified me. I wondered if it was the no hair plus goatee combination. Did a decent mane up-top adroitly balance out the sheer ridiculousness of having a goatee. What could be more intense than a goatee. What even is a goatee. An M25 for your lips, a holiday home for your chin. Pronounced and yet peculiarly isolated. The thing about stubble is that if you don’t shave stubble just happens. But a goatee is a whole new level of care and deliberateness. With my Uncle Fester flex, would going full Walter White draw too much attention to the rug doing a rodeo of my molars.

Or was I just doing that thing fat people do to give themselves a jawline.

Questions poured down like the falling rain. Five hours in my crisis was hotting up, and on the verge of shaving it off I got a text from my mates inviting me round for a casual last-minute dinner. In the name of banter I kept it to show them, fishing out some festival Raybans to complete the look.

When I got there something unexpected happened. They said hello, we shot the breeze, and they passed no comment on my getup whatsoever. And when, after a second glass of wine I gingerly removed my shades and asked if there was anything peculiar about my appearance, they said simply ‘oh yes look, it suits you mingo, you look good’. I upturned the table, said something disparaging about both their mothers and got the hell out of there.

Walking back home in the fading light I caught my reflection in a car window and flinched. And I understood. At last it made sense what this darkness stomping around in a sealed-off wing of my soul was up to. Whatever the goatee was, was the opposite of who I wanted to be. And in the space of a few hours, like a broken mirror, it had fractured my identity.

I wanted to be a good person, to put good into the world, to connect with people, hold doors open, smile at strangers. Looking like this, I couldn’t do those things. I didn’t feel sensitive and polite and accommodating, with an especially hairy vagina for a mouth I felt the opposite. And were I to try and be the first things, looking like I did, I would come across as a weirdo. Real cross the street to the opposite pavement vibes.

So I took an iron to the wrinkles of my malaise and got rid. But not, as my man Myles suggested, without going full Danny Trejo.

More like it.

The cool thing about trying to be as cool as Danny Trejo is accepting you’re going to die from uncoolness in the attempt. The extended handlebar ejected me instantly from the realms of the deeply tenuous beard-style, straight to looking like a knob. And this was breathing space. I felt superb.

I tried on a shirt I hadn’t worn in years.

Hit up the library.

Busted around the supermarket.

Around me audible gasps and bottled selfies soundtracked my day, I was the man and everyone knew it. In a post-covid world my handlebar was flipping the script, I could tell strangers just wanted to be near me. On a solo trip to the cinema, killing time with some peanut m&ms before they opened the auditorium, I lensed a killer selfie.

And from the corner of the screen my world came crashing down.

What’s with the screw face, I asked the kid who’d just photo-bombed me.



You look like a twat, he said.

I took his word for it, went home and fell asleep for a week. So came to an end my saga with the goatee and the extended handlebar. Both bad looks, in different ways. The goatee didn’t work for me, its legitimacy rendered it confusing. On the strained expressions of the folk I encountered was writ the question: are you for real? The goatee was awful, too forced, too laboured, too deliberate. It made me feel strange. Even stranger that the only two people who commented on it said it actually suited me. That was the terrifying thing. And then it took a ten year old in a cinema to affirm that I actually looked like a twat.

If there’s a moral to this nonsense, it’s think twice before you get out the beard trimmer in an inquisitive state of mind. But more accurately, as a wise man once said, you’ll stop caring what people think about you when you realise how seldom they do.

Goatee

In the manner of the rain that has, of late, lashed unceasingly against the dank grey pavements of the city, navigating the puddles and potholes of my days I found a singular repetitive thought drumming against the roof of my brain. What the hell to do with my hairstyle.

I wasn’t drowning in options.

Having drawn the follicular short-straw and watched my forehead increase alarmingly in size over the last few years, it was a toss up between the backward combover flaunted by the Turkish guy in my Local 7 Eleven…

and Uncle Fester.

I tended towards the latter, simply because it was easier and cleaner and I’m a sucker for control and at times when I let it all hang out I’d catch my reflection and see patches where my hair wouldn’t grow and feel old and vagrant.

But the Fester option also came with problems, most notably the ‘head doubling as flashlight’ syndrome. The amount of light bouncing off the top of my melon was a source of contention. Useful for directing pals to my whereabouts on heaving dancefloors, but I was taking driving lessons, what if my dome was deemed hazardous to oncoming traffic by the DVLA.

Could I tan the shine out of me.

Seems not.

I mulled over the Coolio vibe.

Out of nowhere one sticky evening of early summer, scanning Netflix for some mindless flatscreen daydream to wallow in for a couple of hours, an answer came.

The message came loud and clear. I was focusing my energies in the wrong hemisphere. I went to the bathroom, steadied myself and summoned a deep intake of breath. With a deft swivel of the Braun series 9 titanium-coated beard-sculptor, a door to a new room in my soul creaked open. I walked tentatively through.

I had entered an unchartered realm.


The realm of the goatee.

I dusted off the loose stubble, splashed my face with water, towelled myself down, and focussing in once more I surveyed my reflection in the mirror. Staring back at me was someone I had never met before. I took some more photos.

Turns out I wasn’t the only one who was happy about it.

But something alarmed me. I’d had my fair share of questionable hairstyles over the years, but this was different. Never before had I, in under a minute of fairly unconcentrated coiffuring, revolutionised the way I looked at myself, how I perceived my own identity. There was something about the goatee that changed the interior of my being, deep down inside me. That took my 37 year old script, ripped it to shreds and flipped it on its head. That brought out a long forgotten darkness from my soul, something I knew I wasn’t going to be able to come back from. Lurking within its angles and symmetry, was something absolutely terrifying.

What was it exactly. It’s not like I was the first cat to test-drive this particular style. There was Brent.

But then there were some cool cats too. Brad, Leonardo, Pacino. I was in esteemed company. These guys were the epitome of class and continental allure.

In fact, these guys begged an all important question. If you don’t have a goatee, who the hell even are you. What had taken me so long?



And still my reflection terrified me. I wondered if it was the no hair plus goatee combination. Did a decent mane up-top adroitly balance out the sheer ridiculousness of having a goatee. What could be more intense than a goatee. What even is a goatee. An M25 for your lips, a holiday home for your chin. Pronounced and yet peculiarly isolated. The thing about stubble is that if you don’t shave stubble just happens. But a goatee is a whole new level of care and deliberateness. With my Uncle Fester flex, would going full Walter White draw too much attention to the rug doing a rodeo of my molars.

Was I just doing that thing fat people do to give themselves a jawline?

Questions poured down like the falling rain. Five hours in my crisis was hotting up, and on the verge of shaving it off I got a text from my mates inviting me round for a casual last-minute dinner. In the name of banter I kept it to show them, fishing out some festival Raybans to complete the look.

When I got there something unexpected happened. They said hello, we shot the breeze, and they passed no comment on my getup whatsoever. And when, after a second glass of wine I gingerly removed my shades and asked if there was anything peculiar about my appearance, they said simply ‘oh yes look, it suits you mingo, you look good’. I upturned the table, said something disparaging about both their mothers and got the hell out of there.

Walking back home in the fading light I caught my reflection in a car window and flinched. And I understood. At last it made sense what this darkness stomping around in a sealed-off wing of my soul was up to. Whatever the goatee was, was the opposite of who I wanted to be. And in the space of a few hours, like broken glass, it had fractured my identity.

I wanted to be a good person, to put good into the world, to connect with people, hold doors open, smile at strangers. Looking like this, I couldn’t do those things. I didn’t feel sensitive and polite and accommodating, with an especially hairy vagina for a mouth I felt the opposite. And were I to try and be the first things, looking like I did, I would come across as a weirdo. Proper cross to the opposite pavement vibes.

So I took an iron to the wrinkles of my malaise and got rid. But not, as my man Myles suggested, without going full Danny Trejo.

More like it.

The cool thing about trying to be as cool as Danny Trejo is accepting you’re going to die from uncoolness in the attempt. The extended handlebar ejected me instantly from the realms of the deeply tenuous beard-style, straight to looking like a knob. And this was breathing space. I felt superb.

I tried on a shirt I hadn’t worn in years.

Hit up the library.

Busted around the supermarket.

Around me audible gasps and bottled selfies soundtracked my day, I was the man and everyone knew it. In a post-covid world my handlebar was flipping the script, I could tell strangers just wanted to be near me. On a solo trip to the cinema, killing time with some peanut m&ms before they opened the auditorium, I lensed a killer selfie.

And from the corner of the screen my world came crashing down.

What’s with the screw face, I asked the kid who’d just photo-bombed me.




You look like a twat, he said.

I took his word for it, went home and fell asleep for a week. So came to an end my saga with the goatee and the extended handlebar. Both bad looks, in different ways. The goatee didn’t work for me, its legitimacy rendered it confusing. On the strained expressions of the folk I encountered was writ the question: are you for real? The goatee was awful, too forced, too laboured, too deliberate. It made me feel strange. Even stranger that the only two people who commented on it said it actually suited me. That was the terrifying thing. And then it took a ten year old in a cinema to affirm that I actually looked like a twat.

If there’s a moral to this nonsense, it’s think twice before you get out the beard trimmer in an inquisitive state of mind. But more accurately, as a wise man once said, you’ll stop caring what people think about you when you realise how seldom they do.

job

Earth Mother

E A R T H M O T H E R

Far past your leaving we’ll stay enveloped in your presence

Forever erring yearning an affection so relentless


A love supreme to boundless for a muddle of lame sentences


The Vauxhall hatchback backscratch giver hither heaven-sent to us


The walking talking nagging Lemsip Extra Strength for us


The Super Woman standing tall above the sentimentalist


You dropped a beat in me and gently pushed me out to sea


And now mummy you see I’m trying to make sense of it

Jung on Psychedelics

Extract from a letter from C. G. Jung to Victor White, on the subject of psychedelics. June 1954.

Is the LSD drug you’re referring to mescaline? It has indeed very curious effects, of which I know far too little. I don’t know either what it’s psychotherapeutic value with neurotic or psychotic patients is. I only know there is no point in wishing to know more of the collective unconscious than one gets through dreams and intuition. The more you know of it, the greater and heavier becomes your moral burden, because the unconscious contents transform themselves into your individual tasks and duties as soon as they become conscious. Do you want to increase loneliness and misunderstanding? Do you want to find more and more complications and increasing responsibilities? You get enough of it.



If I once could say that I had done everything I know I had to do, then perhaps I should realise a legitimate need to take mescaline. If I should take it now I would not be at all sure that I had not taken it out of idle curiosity. I should hate the thought that I had touched on the sphere where the paint is made that colours the world, where the light is created that makes shine the splendour of the dawn, the lines and shapes of all form, the sound that fills the orbit, the thought that illuminates the darkness of the void.



There are some impoverished creatures perhaps, for whom mescaline would be a heaven sent gift without a counter poison, but I am profoundly mistrustful of the pure “gifts of the gods”, you pay very dearly for them.



This is not the point at all, to know of or about the unconscious, nor does the story end here. On the contrary, it is how and where you begin the real quest. If you are too unconscious, it is a great relief to know a bit of the collective unconscious. But it soon becomes dangerous to know more, because one does not learn at the same time how to balance it through a conscious equivalent. That is the mistake Aldous Huxley makes, he does not know that he is in the role of Zauberlehrling, sorcerer’s apprentice, who learned from his master how to call the ghosts, but did not know how to get rid of them again.

Maturity

This Is Living

Sadly for Chantelle the phone reception on the beach that evening was not her friend and the picture of the sunset she was trying to post kept buffering unsuccessfully. All the while the sunset she was in the middle of was evanescing in the manner of sunsets, and just out to sea the water rippled and glistened in the fading light, and still she stared impatiently at her phone and swore and the sun grew faint and the temperature dropped, and slowly and imperceptibly the wind picked up. When she at last looked up her eyes were hurting and dark was all around her.

The beers were no match for the heat of the afternoon and were flat and tepid. Charlie started mouthing off about not seeing the fucking point in drinking warm fucking beer for fucks sake and went off in search of a beach bar. Leanne scowled in the passive aggressive manner she had been perfecting since their relationship had begun to sour a few months back after reading the texts she wasn’t meant to read, and turned her back, tipping the bottle over which began to seep slowly through her beach towel.

With the surging adrenaline that comes from a story well told, an anecdote about getting a tug from the waiter in the carpark of the Mexican joint, T-J swan-dived into the water, deaf to the screams from his entourage that the evening’s entire stash of coke was in his pocket.

This is living.

Tour Divide

In 2016 me and my mate Wilma took on ‘the hardest bike race outside of France’. Whatever we anticipated might occur, turned out completely differently. Boneshaker the bike magazine published my account of the ordeal.

*

Antelope Wells

25 days, one dangerous eye infection, one fucked knee, ten days in and one rider down, 15 more days, relentless rain, 38 degree heat, one endless mountain range that became an unending desert, another fucked knee, two mental breakdowns, 3 hours of snatched sleep a night for a week later, a sorry whimpering excuse for a human being crawls to the Mexican border fence at Antelope Wells, extends a skeletal finger and grabs ahold of it, drops to his knees and passes out in a cardiac-arrested heap of stinking crap on the desert floor.

Perhaps not that dramatic.

I cracked a not so ice-cold Bud took a sip and passed out.

Felt good though.